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The Bloody Monty

Posted March 9, 2012 By Adri

The Bloody Monty, or The Orange Monty Redux

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My regular readers may recall the delightful mix of orange juice and Amaro Montenegro that made its first appearance in my post Pazza per Amaro. That drink, thanks to Brian of the site Live Like an Italian, has come to be known as the Orange Monty. Since it is blood orange season, and since that season does not last forever, and since the Orange Monty is such a cool drink, I submit for your drinking pleasure the Bloody Monty.

I was cutting and juicing blood oranges for a kitchen experiment, and when I saw all the juice, I felt the tug of distraction in my brain. For those who do not know me, I am somewhat, well, I’ll call it focus challenged. If I were a third grader, I’d probably drive my teacher nuts.

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I looked upon the pitcher of remarkably, I mean completely, opaque blood orange juice. This particular juice had come from my Moro blood oranges. They are my favorite because their juice is dark as blood, consistently so, a trait not shared by the other varieties of blood orange, Tarocco and Sanguinello. I saw the juice, and I knew what I had to do. First, I went for the Solerno blood orange liquore, that amazing distillation of Sicilian blood oranges and lemons – the Sicilian sun in a bottle. Yes, Dear Reader, this is a step above. And I’ll make it simple – if James Bond were ordering this one it would go like this:

“One measure of Amaro Montenegro, 2 of blood orange juice, 1/2 of Solerno, over cracked ice. Then add a thin slice of orange.” Just imagine sidling up to a bar and intoning those words.

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The Bloody Monty

makes 1

2 ounces blood orange juice
1 ounce Amaro Montenegro
1/2 ounce Solerno blood orange liquore
slice of blood orange for garnish

Fill an 8 ounce glass half full with cracked ice. Add ingredients, stir with a bar spoon, and garnish with a thin slice of blood orange. Serve at once.

A couple of notes:

Blood orange season does not last forever. Buy as many blood oranges as you can, and juice them now. Fill ice cube trays with the juice and freeze. Pop out the cubes and bag them for a supply of juice with which you can dazzle family and guests all year long.

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I have always loved the artwork from old fruit and vegetable crates. Italy, home to the world’s finest blood oranges, has a similar tradition of wonderful and whimsical produce artwork. Check out Elizabeth Minchilli in Rome to view a great collection of charmingly beautiful Italian blood orange paper wrappings.

I have no affiliation with any product, manufacturer, or site mentioned in this article.

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Creme Caramel from Bouchon

Posted March 9, 2012 By Adri

By way of The Los Angeles Times

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Well, this is getting to be a habit around here – making recipes from the Los Angeles Times Food Section. Last week the Times ran a recipe for Creme Caramel from Thomas Keller’s Bouchon restaurant. I just had to try it – I am a sucker for custard desserts and creme caramel is my fave. I can never resist the combination of caramel and creamy custard. But this one is different; it is by far and away the finest, most sophisticated rendition of this dessert I have ever eaten. Not too sweet and made with only milk, you’ll find no ½ & ½ or heavy cream here, it has an utterly seductive texture that is silky and light. Just the right ratio of eggs and egg yolks to milk and a low cooking temperature ensure a most elegant set, a custard that jiggles just a bit on the plate and melts on your tongue. I have five words for you: Do try this at home.

Click here for the LA Times recipe.

I have no affiliation with any product, manufacturer, or site mentioned in this article.

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Brodo di Pollo – Chicken Stock

Posted March 4, 2012 By Adri

How to make chicken stock.
The first in the series – Kitchen Basics

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Inquiring minds want to know. My, but after my post on Zuppa di cavolo nero I received so many inquiries about how to make brodo di pollo (chicken stock) that I decided this light chicken broth merits a web address all its own. Brodo di pollo is easy to make and far superior to canned or boxed products. Commercial products often have a bitter or metallic off taste. With homemade brodo the pure clean taste of the chicken and the fragrant vegetables come through and make a magnificent base for any dish. Be sure to use fresh chicken. Don’t switch out any of the vegetables. Use leeks here, not onions. While I use onions for brodo di carne, leeks impart gentle onion undertones in brodo di pollo. And don’t neglect the Italian parsley, it adds a wonderful fresh “green” note.

Making brodo requires a few hours of your time and some patience. There are three keys to clear and pure tasting brodo. The first is fresh ingredients.

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The second is diligent skimming of all the scum and foam which, if left behind, will impart a bitter taste and opacity to the brodo. I recommend using a long handled steel mesh skimmer. It makes this job a breeze. Skimmers are available at kitchenware shops and Amazon.

The third key is twofold – you must remove as much of the surface fat as possible while keeping the stockpot well off the boil. Removing the fat is best done with a metal spoon. If you allow the fat to remain and the pot stays at a rolling boil, the fat will emulsify in the brodo, and it will taste greasy. Keep the stockpot at a lazy simmer and skim frequently to achieve pure chicken flavor with not a hint of bitterness or grease.

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Brodo di Pollo – Chicken Stock

1 chicken, about 4 1/2 to 5 pounds, cut up, visible pieces of fat removed and discarded
2 leeks, rinsed, dark green leaves discarded, white part cut into 1 inch slices
2 carrots, peeled, cut in 1 inch chunks
2 ribs of celery, leaves attached, cut in 1 inch chunks
8 sprigs of Italian parsley
10 black peppercorns

about 2 quarts filtered water, or enough to cover the chicken and aromatics

Place chicken in 8 quart stockpot, and add enough cold water to cover by 2 inches. Place over high heat, and bring to boil, skimming very frequently to remove foam and scum. Once pot has reached a boil, reduce heat to medium low, adjusting heat to maintain a very lazy simmer. Continue skimming until no more foam or scum rises. Add 1 cup very cold water to encourage the last of the scum to rise to top. Skim.

Once there is no more scum, add aromatics (vegetables, parsley and peppercorns.) Adjust heat to maintain a lazy simmer. With stockpot partially covered, continue cooking about 2 hours more, checking often to be certain vegetables are submerged and using a metal spoon remove any fat, foam or scum that rises to the surface. Check color of brodo at 2 hours; it should be a light yellow. If you want it a bit darker, let it cook thirty minutes longer. Remove from heat. Strain stock through dampened cheesecloth or very fine sieve into glass container. Let brodo drain off meat and vegetables. Do not press; that will cloud the brodo. Discard bones and vegetables, reserving meat for another purpose.

The brodo is now ready to use, however I prefer to refrigerate it overnight. As it cools, the fat will rise to the top and form a solid layer easily removed using a metal spoon. These last steps, refrigerating the brodo and then removing the last bit of fat, contribute to a clean. clear brodo. Store, well covered, in refrigerator 2 days or freeze 6 months.

I have no affiliation with any product, manufacturer, or site mentioned in this article.

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Zuppa di Cavolo Nero con Salsiccia ed Orzo

Posted March 2, 2012 By Adri

Black Kale, Sausage and Barley Soup

Kale Barley Sausage Soup

It’s Winter, and that means soup to me. I was craving something satisfying, so I decided on meatballs and cavolo nero. And to be honest, I wanted a shortcut. Then I remembered the fennel sausages in the freezer. Bart had brought them home from his last trip to Bay Cities Italian Deli in Santa Monica. I used the sausages as a base for the meatballs, and the scheme worked beautifully. The meatballs were a snap to make, had great flavor, and they held together perfectly in the soup. If you are not a fan of fennel, or if you have something else in your freezer, maybe some spicy sausage, go ahead and use that.

I recommend using pearl barley. It is barley that has been processed to remove the outer hull, and it cooks more quickly and is somewhat less chewy than hulled barley. Note that I call for fresh breadcrumbs in the meatballs, not dried. I like to use egg bread, although a good Italian bread will do. Be certain you do not use sourdough. To make fresh breadcrumbs, place slices of bread on cutting board. Trim and discard crusts. Cut bread into quarters. Place in workbowl of food processor fitted with metal knife and process until finely ground.

Kale Barley Sausage Soup

Zuppa di Cavolo Nero con Salsiccia ed Orzo
Black Kale, Sausage and Barley Soup

serves 4

Meatballs

makes about 25 1 inch meatballs

1/2 pound Italian sausage with fennel seeds
1/2 small onion, grated
1 large egg yolk plus half an egg white
3 tablespoons Italian parsley, roughly chopped
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
generous 1/4 cup fresh bread crumbs

Kale Barley Sausage Soup

Soup

1 medium yellow onion, minced
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 quarts brodo di pollo (chicken broth)
1/2 cup pearl barley
1 bunch (about 9 ounces) cavolo nero, well rinsed, tough inner ribs removed and discarded, cut into 1 inch slices
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
generous pinch Peperoncino flakes
2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more to finish soup, if desired
Parmigiano to pass at table

To make the meatballs:

Remove sausages from their casings. Discard casings. Break sausages into small pieces. Set aside.

Grate onion. Blot and discard any liquid produced while grating.

In medium bowl combine onion, egg yolk and white, parsley, salt and pepper. Add cheese and bread crumbs, and combine well. Add sausage meat, and gently, but completely mix. Form into 1 inch meatballs. Place on parchment lined sheet pan while you proceed with soup base.

To make the soup:

In a 6 quart pot heat 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium heat. Add onion, salt and peperoncino flakes. Saute until just translucent, about 5 minutes.

Add garlic and saute lightly until fragrant, being careful not to let it brown, about 1 to 2 minutes.

Add chicken brodo. Bring to boil and add barley. Lower heat to a mild simmer. Cook 10 minutes.

Add meatballs. Cook 5 minutes to allow meatballs to firm up.

Kale Barley Sausage Soup

Place kale over meatballs, pressing down very gently to submerge. Cook 20 minutes more at a gentle simmer until kale has softened and barley is cooked to your liking. Serve with a bit of olive oil drizzled over soup, if desired. At table pass Parmigiano to grate over soup.

 

Kale Barley Sausage Soup

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I have no affiliation with any product, manufacturer, or site mentioned in this article.

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