Brown Butter Hazelnut Madeleines – French cakelets with an Italian Accent
I can hear it now. What’s a French cookie doing in a site devoted to Italian food? Well, the answer is they are good, and I was having a craving, and so I am sharing. Besides, with almond flour from Piemonte and Frangelico, these Madeleines speak with an Italian accent. These small cakelets baked in shell shaped molds have a place of honor in culinary and literary history. They made the city of Comercy famous and Marcel Proust immortalized them in his “episode of the madeleine” in Remembrance of Things Past.
No sooner had the warm liquid mixed with the crumbs touched my palate than a shudder ran through me and I stopped, intent upon the extraordinary thing that was happening to me. An exquisite pleasure had invaded my senses, something isolated, detached, with no suggestion of its origin. And at once the vicissitudes of life had become indifferent to me, its disasters innocuous, its brevity illusory – this new sensation having had on me the effect which love has of filling me with a precious essence; or rather this essence was not in me it was me. … Whence did it come? What did it mean? How could I seize and apprehend it? … And suddenly the memory revealed itself. The taste was that of the little piece of madeleine which on Sunday mornings at Combray (because on those mornings I did not go out before mass), when I went to say good morning to her in her bedroom, my aunt Léonie used to give me, dipping it first in her own cup of tea or tisane. The sight of the little madeleine had recalled nothing to my mind before I tasted it. And all from my cup of tea.
Marcel Proust, Remembrance of Things Past
These are highly flavored with a generous dose of vanilla, brown butter, Piemontese hazelnut flour and Frangelico. The vanilla sugar ups the fragrance and flavor while enhancing the sweetness. And the brown butter adds a depth of flavor plain butter simply can not match. It is the perfect complement to the hazelnut flour and liquor.
If you have never worked with brown butter, now is a good time to start. It is easy to make. Just heat the butter until it melts and the solids brown. With its rich nutty flavor, it is wonderful over fish and veggies, as a sauce for pasta, and of course in cakes and pastries. Watch my video demo to learn how to make brown butter.
I always use my old tin Madeleine plaques. You don’t see them much in stores any more, although you may come across some in second hand shops. Today most are either silicone or non-stick finish. But the old metal ones are worth seeking out. They impart a delicate crispy crust and golden color the new molds just can’t match.
These Madeleines are sure to delight. Have a bite with a sip of tea, and you will discover what got Proust going.
Brown Butter Hazelnut Madeleines
makes 2 to 4 dozen, depending on the size
3/4 cup unsalted butter
1 cup 00 flour OR 1 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 cup hazelnut flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1 scant teaspoon sea salt
3 large eggs
3 large egg yolks
3/4 cup vanilla sugar
1 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons Frangelico
powdered sugar to dust finished Madeleines
about 3 tablespoons unsalted butter for plaques, very soft or melted
Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.
Melt butter for pans and use a pastry brush to generously butter plaques.
Brown the butter and set aside.
In a small bowl combine, flours, baking powder and sea salt. Set aside.
Place eggs, yolks and sugar in bowl of stand mixer fitted with paddle. Beat at medium speed until light yellow and thickened, about 5 to 6 minutes. Beat in vanilla and Frangelico. Add brown butter and combine well.
Fold flour mixture into egg mixture. Set aside to rest 20 minutes.
Fill plaques 3/4 full. Bake on center rack until edges are brown and a bit crispy, about 6 to 7 ½ minutes, depending on size.
Remove from oven and turn out of pan after about 1 minute. Flip madeleines shell side up, and cool on rack.
Dust with powdered sugar before serving.
Food nerd notes: Vanilla sugar is a particularly fine addition to baked goods of all kinds. To make it, pour 2 pounds C&H Baker’s Sugar (a finely ground white sugar) into a large container. Slit 2 vanilla beans lengthwise, and scrape the seeds into the sugar, stirring to disperse the seeds. Bury the beans in the sugar. Cover and set aside for at least 1 week to allow flavors to marry. Replenish the sugar as you use it, and the beans if they dry out or lose their fragrance.
Hazelnut flour, also known as hazelnut meal is available at many markets, Amazon and King Arthur Flour. The finest is made from hazelnuts grown in Piemonte.
Note: You can click on any picture to see a slide show!
I have no affiliation with any product, manufacturer, or site mentioned in this article.
Friday, January 11th 2013 at 11:56 pm |
It looks deliciuos! I like to use hazelnut flour in baking, it gives a special flavor. Thanks for sharing the brown butter recipe. I should try to make it. Your posts are unique, Adri!
Saturday, January 12th 2013 at 7:18 am |
Ciao Paola,
As always, it is my pleasure to share. The hazelnut flour is indeed wonderful, and do try the brown butter. It is pretty spectacular – butter, a pan and some heat, and you’ve got it!
Saturday, January 12th 2013 at 12:17 am |
I love Madeleines! Perfect result:)) Fantastic your madelein palques and wonderful photos:)) kiss:* You have a nice day adri:*
Saturday, January 12th 2013 at 7:19 am |
Thanks, Simona. A great day to you – un bacione!
Saturday, January 12th 2013 at 5:47 am |
These looks very pretty and very good. And quite simple as well—simple enough for a non-baker like myself to make perhaps…
Saturday, January 12th 2013 at 7:22 am |
Ciao Frank,
These are simple, and worthy of your repertoire. With the skilled cook you are, it is perhaps your ineluctable destiny to move into the world of baking – the last frontier for you, amico!
Saturday, January 12th 2013 at 7:48 am |
These look fantastic
Saturday, January 12th 2013 at 8:38 am |
Thanks, Anthony!
Saturday, January 12th 2013 at 4:02 pm |
Che meraviglia le madeleines… adoro Proust e i ricordi che evoca attraverso i sapori che gli attribuisce..! Complimenti! 😀
Saturday, January 12th 2013 at 8:42 pm |
Grazie. Anch’io adoro Proust e le madeleines. Ho usato farina di nocciole dal Piemonte. E il migliore!
Saturday, January 12th 2013 at 10:30 pm |
I am so coveting those sturdy madeleine pans. I bought one once decades ago for a friend but doubt she ever used it. I will be searching one out after seeing your beautiful version version with an Italian accent. The Proust excerpt reminds us of how food can stir lovely memories of childhood.
Saturday, January 12th 2013 at 11:18 pm |
The old pans are the best. At one point I considered purchasing the non-stick version, but I realized mine bake so beautifully, and when well buttered, nothing ever sticks.
It is a wonderful thing how food can stir old memories. It always takes me by surprise.
Sunday, January 13th 2013 at 1:24 am |
Devono essere fantastiche con la farina di nocciole! Strepitose! Grazie per avermi fatto conoscere iltuo blog 🙂
Sunday, January 13th 2013 at 7:16 am |
Il piacere emio! Grazie!
Sunday, January 13th 2013 at 4:00 am |
Uuaauhhhh. Meravigliosa la tua versione e splendide le fotografie , trasmettono una sensazione calore. Una ricetta, da lode.
Complimenti…
Sunday, January 13th 2013 at 7:16 am |
Grazie!
Sunday, January 13th 2013 at 7:45 am |
grazie per essere passata dalla mia cucina! complimenti per il tuo delizioso sito!!!
Sunday, January 13th 2013 at 9:59 am |
Il piacere e mio. E grazie a te!
Sunday, January 13th 2013 at 11:31 am |
Thery look delicious! 🙂 I love the Madeleines 🙂
Yours are perfect! Love your blog, is so nice! 😀
A lot of hugs!
Incoronata.
P.s. thank you for visiting my blog.
Sunday, January 13th 2013 at 11:58 am |
Benvenuta Incoronata,
Thank so much for visiting and for the compliments. I enjoy meeting other bloggers – a benefit of writing!
Sunday, January 13th 2013 at 6:36 pm |
Don’t tell the French, but we love Madeleines! Gorgeous photography, too!
Sunday, January 13th 2013 at 8:07 pm |
My lips are sealed! – Thanks to you both!
Monday, April 8th 2013 at 3:05 am |
I can see where we share a passion – collecting those new (and preferably) vintage baking pans – I love the different madeleine pans you own. I have a few ones myself and I have been looking forever for those seashell ones (fifth picture), to my great dismay, I have never found any around here – but I am not giving up. We love madeleines and they are such fun to bake, I have tried lemon lavender, honey orange…but never a delighful recipe for brown butter hazelnut, it sounds and looks fabulous and like a must try.
Buona giornata!
Monday, April 8th 2013 at 7:33 am |
Indeed, those old pans are a delight. I was particularly pleased to find the seashell ones. They never were widely sold here in the U.S. Keep looking, and eventually you will find one. They have such charm, I think. I hope you give the madeleines a try. The brown butter imparts an extraordinary depth of flavor. Un abbraccio!
Friday, January 16th 2015 at 9:22 am |
Greeting, Adri – I’m embarrassed to confess that I just found the comment you left on my blog several months ago. I knew you had been struggling with something but I had no idea you had been in a terrible accident. I so hope you are back to your healthy self and enjoying life. I so appreciate the link to your hazelnut madeleines and have put them on my baking list to make soon. Next to Turkey Oregon is the largest hazelnut producer in the world and I’m always looking for new and delicious ways to use them. And if they are a part of a scrumptious little French pastry it’s all the better. Thank you again for your note. – Cathy
Friday, January 16th 2015 at 6:17 pm |
Hi Cathy,
No worries. I am doing well. It was a tough spring and summer, but thank heavens for the restorative California sun.
I love hazelnuts, and I am always looking for new ways to use them. I hope you enjoy the Madeleines! Happy New Year, and thank you very much for your kind concern.