Musings Archive

Cuore di bue Tomato

Posted May 20, 2011 By Adri

Another in the ongoing series – Exploring Tomatoes

Cuore di bue tomato

Awesome. Exotic. And well worth waiting every one of the 85 days it will take to mature. The Cuore di bue tomato is one of my favorites. Oxheart. What a name. What a tomato. Read more… »

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Red Fig Tomato

Posted May 17, 2011 By Adri

Another in the ongoing series – Exploring Tomatoes

Red Fig Tomato

These pear shaped heirlooms are small, averaging about 1.5 inches long. They have been grown in United States gardens for over two hundred years. In the past cooks used the fruit to make a sweet preserved delicacy that was enjoyed throughout the winter. Nowadays gardeners grow them for use in salads, contorni, tomato jam and more. Read more… »

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Espresso Jello

Okay, so you are wondering about the title. I can hear you all now. Adri, that is SO not you. What are you thinking, writing a title like that? What’ll people think? Kinda snippy, Dudette! Let me set everyone straight right now. Don’t think anything about it, and since you asked, yes, I like Giada DeLaurentiis. I like her a lot. She makes some great Italian food, and she makes it accessible. She is, as they say in the biz, relatable. The stories, the laughs, the Italian family, the neighborhood in which we both grew up. Yes. I shall proclaim it now. I, Adri Barr Crocetti, am a fan. Giada – for all the great recipes and all the inspiration, mille grazie.

Moving along. Just a few days ago Bart and I were talking about my blog articles and making a list of subjects under consideration. Among them was one of my fave rave summer desserts, Gelatina di Espresso. Espresso Gelatin. Homemade Espresso Jell-O. Call it what you will. I love it, especially on a scorching hot summer day. I entered it on my list and moved on.

Saturday morning I looked at the Food Network lineup I saw that Giada D. was going to do Espresso Chocolate Jellies. That sounded intriguing, so I took a look. Her dessert consists of a layer of chocolate covered with a mixture of instant espresso and Kahlua set with gelatin and topped with whipped cream. Mine is not. Mine is pure unadulterated espresso set with gelatin and topped with sweetened vanilla scented whipped cream. See? That’s all I meant by my title. Two different recipes.

I first tasted this very adult dessert in July of 1971 – on a night train from Milan. After a wonderful and very elegant dinner, it was time for dessert. And I could not believe I was being served Jell-O. I came halfway across the world for Jell-O? No way. Except it was true, and as it turned out, I was glad. One taste and I was transported to the world of adult desserts. Not too sweet, with the bitterness of Espresso, this was a soft gelatin that surrendered to the heat of my tongue. This was not my mother’s Jell-O.

In another twist to this story, and this is where the synchronicity comes in, we celebrated National Train Day this past Saturday, in honor of our great American railroads. I love trains, and I traveled all through Europe on them. So today, along with celebrating American trains and Amtrak, I salute Italian trains, the trains that introduced me to Gelatina di Espresso and the last trains in the world where the conductor kisses the passport photograph of a woman he finds particularly beautiful. Viva i treni!

 

Espresso Jello

 

Alfonso BialettiAlfonso Bialetti’s Italian stovetop espresso makers rocked the coffee world when they first appeared in 1933, and they dominate the market to this day. Known as Moka Express, Bialetti’s original stovetop espresso maker has remained almost unchanged since 1933 save for one decorative addition – the chubby mascot on each coffee maker L’Omino con i baffiThe Little Man with a Moustache is Sig. Bialetti himself. Familiar to us all, these darlings of the Italian design world come in sizes ranging from single serving all the way up to 18 cups.  (The standard of measure for a cup in a Moka pot is 1 cup =2 oz.)  Steam does the work in this style of espresso maker, and it does it quickly, which matters a lot if you have a recipe that calls for 2 standard U.S. cups (a total of 16 oz.) of espresso, as this one does. These iconic babies with their easily recognizable octagonal shape continue to live up to their maker’s promise of allowing customers to enjoy in casa un espresso come al baran espresso in the home just like in a coffeehouse.

 

Espresso Jello

 

Gelatina di Espresso

makes 4 servings, ½ cup each

1 envelope (1/4 oz.) KNOX Unflavored Gelatine
2 tablespoons cold water
2 cups ( 16 ounces) hot espresso
3 to 4 tablespoons granulated sugar

1 cup heavy cream
1 teaspoon granulated sugar
½ teaspoon vanilla extract

bittersweet or semi-sweet chocolate shavings

Before we begin – don’t be put off by the idea of using gelatin. Once you understand it, you’ll be glad you took the time to learn. Classic gelatin technique consists of two steps, bloom and dissolve. If you are new to gelatin or just need a refresher, click here to see my post on Espresso Panna Cotta and come up to speed with step by step directions. For even more information click here to see my post on Blood Orange Fruit Gelatin.

Brew espresso. While espresso brews, pour 2 tablespoons cold water in medium bowl and sprinkle gelatin over. Set aside to soften for 5 minutes, do not stir. When espresso has brewed and gelatin has softened, pour 2 cups (16 oz.) hot espresso over gelatin mixture and stir to combine and melt gelatin. Add sugar, a tablespoon at a time until desired degree of sweetness is achieved. Keep in mind you will eat this cold, so a little extra sugar may be necessary no matter how perfect the sweetness level seems when you first try it. Place bowl over ice water bath, stirring occasionally to promote even cooling.

Pour mixture into serving glasses and refrigerate until set, 2 hours or overnight. If you are feeling particularly playful, rather than serving this dessert in the traditional wine glasses or coupe dishes, use coffee cups or espresso cups. The whimsical touch will delight your guests and guarantee smiles all around.

Beat heavy cream with sugar and vanilla, until very soft peaks form. To serve give each gelatin a dollop of whipped cream. If you are a fan of dark chocolate like Bart, then finish it with a dusting of either bittersweet or semi-sweet chocolate shavings.

And for the gardeners out there – don’t discard those espresso grounds, they’ll give your tomatoes a great nitrogen boost!

 

Espresso Jello

Note: You can click on any picture to see a slide show with even more pictures!
I have no affiliation with any product, manufacturer, or site mentioned in this article.

Espresso Jello

Espresso Jello

Espresso maker with Illy

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Corzetti: The Intagliatore of Chiavari

Posted April 21, 2011 By Adri

Corzetti TitleC

This is Part 2 of a series – The Corzetti Files
For detailed information and photo essays on how to make corzetti, along with recipes, please delve further into
The Corzetti Files:

Edible Art, The Corzetti Files – Part 1

The Intagliatore of Chiavari, The Corzetti Files – Part 2

Corzetti agli Spinaci con Gorgonzola, The Corzetti Files – Part 3

Where to Buy Corzetti Stamps, The Corzetti Files – Part 4

Corzetti Stampati – and a Giveaway! The Corzetti Files – Part 5



A Gold Coin
Coin Reverse The pasta we know as Corzetti started with a gold coin, the Genovino d’oro. Rome had fallen, and the curtain of The Dark Ages had descended over western Europe. Trade has fueled society for centuries, and it is trade that brought gold coins and light back to western Europe. The gold came across the Sahara from north Africa and Genoa’s harbor assured her of preeminent mercantile stature. King Conrad granted Genoa the right to mint her own gold coinage in 1252, and these pieces of almost pure gold summon up the history and wealth of The Most Serene Republic of Genoa.

 

 

Coin ObverseComing in at about 3.5 grams, the earliest of these coins feature the city gate and to honor King Conrad and his participation in the Crusades, a Crusader cross on the reverse. The coins are covered with a beautiful relief. One of the most famous coins honors the first Doge of Genoa, Simone Boccanegra, and later coins honor subsequent families and Doges. Today one must visit a museum or be fortunate enough to know a collector to view these coins, but with Liguria’s gift to the world of the pasta known as corzetti stampati (kohr-TSEHT-tee stahm-PAH-tee), the legacy of these glorious coins is alive and well and available to us all.

 

A Piece of Wood
I have an ongoing love affair with handmade pasta, and this one captivated me from the start. Imagine my delight when I discovered its history, how it was made, and that I could do it at home. All I needed was a corzetti stamp, the two piece tool that cuts and imprints the pasta. By the way, you may come across pasta in shops, in recipes or on menus called croxetti, crosetti or curzetti – these are all names for corzetti. Read more… »

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Italian Seeds

Posted April 16, 2011 By Adri

Italian Seeds 01

 

Italian cuisine is not all about pasta. Oh no. The Italians have a way with vegetables. And they grow their own. They have developed the most magnificent array, and now we in America can buy Italian seeds. Yes, now you can grow Italian. Each year I see more and more imported Italian vegetable and herb seeds at garden centers, but the go to place remains Seeds from Italy. The number of their offerings is astounding – more than thirty varieties of radicchio and chicory alone. And it just keeps getting better – by September they expect to have Italian garlic – Sulmona from Abruzzo and Berrentina Piacentina from Piacenza. The list goes on – beans, cabbages, kale, cavolo, caulifower, endive, escarole, and I’m only to E.  My favorites, however are the pumpkins, le zucche.  You’ll find a tremendous selection, and you have never seen ones like those grown from Seeds from Italy. The only thing you will regret once you peruse their catalogue of imported Italian seeds is that your backyard garden is not larger. Life is good in the garden. Start planning!


Note: You can click on any picture to see a slide show of even more pictures!

 

Pumpkin Harvest

I have no affiliation with any product, manufacturer, or site mentioned in this article.

 

Italian Seeds
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Nutella-Swirl Poundcake
In October 2009 Food & Wine ran a recipe that has since become legend. From Cake Keeper Cakes by Lauren Chattman, Nutella-Swirl Poundcake is a combination of buttery rich vanilla poundcake and Nutella. With a name like that you know I at least had to stop and read the recipe. Well, I do not think I ever got any farther into that issue of Food & Wine. And I am not the only one; bloggers everywhere were making it, writing about it, tweaking it and universally extolling the virtues of this cake.


Poundcake is perhaps my Desert Island Dessert, and vanilla is my favorite. But you could hardly call what I like plain old, plain wrap or anything else plain. I like my poundcake sweet and buttery with a very heavy dose of vanilla. And this poundcake has everything I require plus an entire 13 ounce jar of Nutella. Yes the whole thing – Italy and Pietro Ferrero’s gift to the world – divine Nutella. The unique thing about this poundcake is that the Nutella is incorporated in its pristine Nutella state; it is not diluted by mixing with a portion of the vanilla poundcake batter in the manner so typical of marble cakes. No. And that means this cake leaves the oven with big luscious pockets of creamy dark Nutella. I could go on and describe how the ultra-buttery vanilla poundcake is the perfect foil for the oven-baked concentrated Nutella, or how your family will vie for the edges where the Nutella has seeped through to the crust, or how the combination of Nutella and poundcake transforms into almost more confection than cake. But if I did, it would be just that much longer until you got busy in the kitchen. Thus, I shall refrain.


The recipe has since receded into the ether, but I think it is time for a revival. Put on your Nutella tee shirt, fit your KitchenAid with the paddle attachment and get busy. There is a reason why Ms. Chattman included this among her Keepers. Make this cake. You will be glad you did. And don’t forget to keep the gold seals on the Nutella jars. You can redeem the coolest Nutella stuff with them.


A couple of Baker’s Notes: I like to slice the cake and freeze the slices for future afternoon treats.  Be sure to double wrap the slices tightly in plastic wrap.  You will be glad you did.  Although the recipe calls for a baking time of “about 1 hour and 15 minutes,” be sure to start checking this cake at 1 hour and 5 minutes to avoid overbaking. I have made this cake in several different pans. I have achieved superior results with Williams-Sonoma Goldtouch Nonstick. The cake bakes up evenly and with an absolutely sublime crust. And the nonstick properties of this bakeware are phenomenal. If you do not already own any of this bakeware, I suggest you purchase some. It is well worth the investment.

Nutella Jar

With permission from Taunton Press here is the original recipe from Cake Keeper Cakes by Lauren Chattman

Nutella Swirl Poundcake

Serves 8 to 10

4 large eggs, at room temperature, lightly beaten

2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

1 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

3/4 teaspoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened

1 1/4 cups sugar

1 jar (13 ounces, about 1 cup) Nutella

 

1.Preheat the oven to 325ºF. Grease a 9-inch by 5-inch loaf pan and dust with flour.

2. Combine the eggs and vanilla in a glass measuring cup and lightly beat. Combine the flour, baking powder, and salt in a medium mixing bowl.

3. Combine the butter and sugar in a large mixing bowl and cream with an electric mixer on medium-high speed until fluffy, about 3 minutes, scraping down the sides of the bowl once or twice as necessary.

4. With the mixer on medium-low speed, pour the egg mixture into the bowl in a slow stream, stopping the mixer once or twice to scrape down the sides.

5. Turn the mixer to low speed and add the flour mixture, 1/2 cup at a time, scraping down the sides of the bowl after each addition. After the last addition, mix for 30 seconds on medium speed.

6. Scrape 1/3 of the batter into the prepared pan and smooth with a spatula. Spread 1/2 of the Nutella over the batter and smooth with a cleaned spatula. Scrape another 1/3 of the batter over the Nutella and smooth. Scrape the remaining Nutella over the batter and smooth. Spread the remaining batter over the Nutella and smooth. Run a butter knife blade through the batter to create marbling. Do not overmix.

7. Bake the cake until it is golden and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, about 1 hour and 15 minutes. Let the cake cool in the pan for 15 minutes, invert it onto a wire rack, and then turn it right side up on a rack to cool completely. Slice and serve.

8. Store uneaten cake in a cake keeper or wrap in plastic and store at room temperature for up to 3 days.

Nutella Swirl Poundcake

© Alexandra Grablewski

Note: You can click on any picture to see a slide show of even more pictures!

I have no affiliation with any product, manufacturer, or site mentioned in this article.

 

Cake Keeper Cakes

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