Gina DePalma and Copulettas – Half-moon pastries from Sardinia
Greetings to all. It’s been months since you have heard from me. Life and my home remodel have conspired to keep me out of the kitchen and away from my computer. This post, however is not about me. It is about Gina DePalma. Gina, for those of you unfamiliar with her, is one of the stars of the Italian pastry world. She was the pastry chef at Babbo and Enoteca restaurants in New York for many years, and she is the author of numerous articles and Dolce Italiano, one of my favorite collections of Italian desserts.
Gina was diagnosed with ovarian cancer in 2007, and in the ensuing years she has waged a fierce battle with the disease. My return to blogging comes in the form of a paean to her – both her skill at the oven and stove, and her courage in the face of a terrible adversary. She summed it up this way.
…This second recurrence of my ovarian cancer began in February of 2012. I’ve been on continuous chemotherapy since then, which is a very, very long time. My situation has mostly gone downhill and it has taken a toll. Although I was doing well for most of last year, the bottom line is that the cancer isn’t going away and I’m not responding to the drugs anymore.
I have reunited with my doctor at Mount Sinai, where I was treated from 2007 to 2013, and he strongly believes that this surgery is the best course of action for me…
On September 28, 2015 Gina underwent her second cancer surgery. She will recuperate in Yonkers at the home of her mother, her beloved felines at her side.
To support Gina, please send her your best wishes by posting on her website, Facebook page, or Twitter. If you’ve got a bit of extra time, make this or another of her recipes and post a shot on Facebook or Twitter.
Gina’s book, Dolce Italiano, is available from Amazon.
Each of Italy’s twenty regions has its own specialty pastries, cookies, and treats. Sardegna (Sardinia) is no exception. Copulettas are mezzelune (half-moon shaped) pastry pockets of sweet dough filled with ground toasted almonds, almond paste, orange marmalade, honey, and saba. They are often served at special occasions such as baptisms and weddings. Here is Gina’s recipe, with a few added notes and some alternate techniques. I have also included excerpts from her headnote. Grazie, Gina, and I wish you the best!
Copulettas
makes 24
Sardinia is the second great Italian island of the Mediterranean, known as the “island of the sun.” Situated 100 miles off the coast of Italy, Sardinia posses a particular beauty. The island’s 1800 kilometers of coastline alternates between rugged, rocky cliffs and soft, sandy, white beaches; both met by the crystal clear blue waters of the sea.
Sardinians like their pastries sweet and flavorful, and the variations differ from region to region, and even from town to town. Many feature almonds, which are harvested in Sardinia, and candied orange peel or lemon zest, as well honey.
Copulettas are a specialty of the wine-making region of Gallura, and I think they are interesting and delicious. To make them, you will need a bottle of saba, which is cooked grape must. The acidity of the saba balances the sweetness of the almond paste, and is essential to the flavor of the filling. I also recommend using an orange marmalade that is not too sweet, but full of intense orange flavor; I hate to sound like a nag, but an Italian brand, such as Il Forteto, will best satisfy that criteria. The dough is very easy to work with and roll out, and making it by hand is an extremely satisfying endeavor. Do not roll it too thin or the filling will burst through. Sprinkles are a must to add that extra festive touch on these pastries, which burst with the special flavors of Sardenga.
For the dough:
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, OR 00 flour, plus additional for rolling
½ cup granulated sugar
½ teaspoon fine sea salt
2 large eggs
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted
For the filling:
½ cup blanched, sliced almonds, toasted and cooled
4 ounces almond paste
2 heaping tablespoons orange marmalade
1 tablespoon Sardinian honey
2 tablespoons saba
To assemble:
1 large egg white
1 large egg
For the icing:
2 cups confectioners’ sugar
1 pasteurized egg white* – see food safety note below
Multicolored sprinkles
Alternate icing:
2 cups confectioners’ sugar
2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon water
To make the dough by hand: combine the flour, sugar, and salt, and make a pile on your work surface. With your fingers, create a deep well; make sure the sides are high enough to support it. Beat the eggs lightly with a fork in a small bowl, add them to the well along with the olive oil and the melted butter. As with pasta dough, gradually incorporate the flour into eggs, using your fingers or a fork, forming a rough dough. Knead the dough until it is smooth and homogenous. Divide the dough in half, and wrap each half in plastic wrap. Refrigerate for 30 minutes.
To make the dough in the food processor: place the flour, sugar, and salt in the workbowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Pulse twice to combine. Place the eggs, olive oil, and melted butter in a small measuring cup, and use a small whisk or fork to combine, breaking up the eggs well. With the processor running, add the wet ingredients and process until the dough just comes together. Turn the dough out onto a clean counter and knead briefly. Divide the dough in half, and wrap each piece in plastic wrap. Refrigerate for 30 minutes.
In the meantime, make the filling: to toast the almonds, preheat the oven to 350 degrees F., and adjust the rack to the center level. Spread the almonds on a rimmed baking sheet, and toast for 10 to 12 minutes, until fragrant and just starting to color. Set the almonds aside to cool. Grind the cooled almonds in the workbowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Transfer them to a medium bowl. Break the almond paste into small pieces with your fingers, and add it to the bowl with the ground almonds. Add the marmalade, honey, and saba to the bowl, and with a fork, mash all the ingredients together until thoroughly combined.
Roll out the dough: preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Place the egg white in a small bowl and beat it lightly with a fork. Roll out half of the dough on a lightly floured board. The dough should be slightly thinner than tart dough. Using a three-inch round cutter, cut 12 circles, re-rolling the scraps as necessary.
Assemble the copulettas: lightly brush the dough circles with the beaten egg white. With slightly dampened hands place a scant teaspoon of filling slightly off center of each circle, and flatten it slightly.
Fold one side of the dough over the filling to make a crescent shape.
Press the dough around the filling and seal the edges of the dough. Use a fluted cutter to trim the dough and give it a scalloped edge. Repeat with the other half of the dough.
Arrange the copulettas on a parchment-lined sheet tray, evenly spaced. Lightly beat the whole egg in a bowl and use a pastry brush to glaze the pastries. Using a toothpick, prick each copuletta at the base of the mound of filling, to release any air and prevent them from bursting. Bake them for 18 to 20 minutes, or until they are firm and lightly golden brown. Remove the copulettas from the oven and allow them to cool completely.
Finish the copulettas: make the icing by placing the confectioner’s sugar in a small bowl. Add the egg white (or water if using the alternate recipe) and stir until the icing is smooth, but very stiff. Add a few drops of water as needed.
To decorate the copulettas, spread the icing generously over the entire surface of each pastry, and decorate with a few sprinkles. Let the copulettas dry for 1 hour.
* Food Safety:
The CDC recommends that consumption of raw eggs be avoided by the elderly, infants, and those with impaired immune systems. If you make the first version of the icing, use a pasteurized egg white to eliminate the risk of salmonellosis. The bacteria that causes the illness, salmonella, can be present on both the outside and inside of eggs that appear to be normal, and if the eggs are eaten raw or lightly cooked, illness can ensue. I suggest Safest Choice pasteurized eggs from Davidson’s.
To market, to market…
Saba is an ancient condiment made from grape must that is slowly cooked and reduced to about a third of its original volume, resulting in a luxuriously thick syrup with multiple layers of rich flavor. It is available at Amazon and many Italian delis. If you can not find saba, you can substitute Vino Cotto, available at most Italian delis and Amazon.
I urge you to try Sardinian honey from Luigi Manias. These organic honeys are luxuriously rich and uniquely flavorful. The Millefiori or Asphodel honeys would be perfect in these little pastries, but I used Manias’ Corbezzolo honey. This stellar honey is a combination of bitter and sweet with what I can only describe as notes of tobacco. It offered an intriguing counterpoint to the almonds, sweet orange marmalade, and saba in the filling. Luigi Manias honeys are available at Amazon, Olio2go, and Gustiamo. Try any of these honeys once, and you’ll be hooked.
Gina suggests using an Italian orange marmalade such as Il Forteto. Il Forteto can be difficult to find, and so I suggest substituting the extraordinarily rich and flavorful marmalades from Marchesi San Giuliano, available at Amazon and Olio2go or those from Caffe Sicilia, available at Amazon and Gustiamo. These fine marmalades made from fruit nurtured by the bright Sicilian sun infuse the pastries with intense citrus flavor and a heady richness born of the age-old craft of preserving.
For the olive oil in the dough feel free to use a fine Sardinian oil, but I have found that California Olive Ranch Extra Virgin Olive Oil is a delight for many baking needs, especially here where a small amount is called for. I have used their oils in cakes, cookies, and pastry doughs with great success. California Olive Ranch oils are sold in supermarkets and are quite affordable.
To Gina I say, “Rock on, amica. We’re all pulling for you. You are the Queen of Italian desserts.”
Note: You can click on any picture for a slide show!
I have no affiliation with any product, manufacturer, or site mentioned in this article.
Gina DePalma photograph, W. W. Norton & Company
Tuesday, October 13th 2015 at 6:58 am |
Very sorry to hear of the ongoing problems for Gina, she will be in everyones prayers. Your cookies with the almond paste and orange marmalade sound wonderfully tasty. It is so very nice to hear from you again, you have been missed.
Tuesday, October 13th 2015 at 8:41 am |
Hi Karen,
It is really a shame about Gina. She is being released from the hospital today, and will soon start chemo again, so she needs lots of good wishes. Her cookies are really terrific, and I hope you give them a go! Thanks for the kind words about my return. It is good to be back. All the best to you and yours.
Tuesday, October 13th 2015 at 2:53 pm |
Ugh, I hate to hear that Gina now has another hurdle. Hope her surgery recovery goes well and that it gives her more time with her family and friends. P.S. Your cookies look both beautiful and yummy!!!
Tuesday, October 13th 2015 at 5:25 pm |
Hi Liz,
I know. It is such a shame. Gina returned home today, and she will begin another course of chemotherapy. So let’s all send good vibes her way. These copulettas are a sweet treat indeed! Thanks so much for stopping by.
Wednesday, October 14th 2015 at 4:12 am |
This is a lovely tribute. They look amazing! That filling is incredible. I’ve never tried these before, but now it’s on the list!
Wednesday, October 14th 2015 at 6:21 am |
Hi Mir,
I am so glad that you enjoyed this. Gina has been a big influence on me, and I wanted to show some support. Thank you for joining the chorus! I bet you will enjoy the copulettas!
Wednesday, October 14th 2015 at 12:45 pm |
Such beautiful food you show! Love you guys!
Wednesday, October 14th 2015 at 7:41 pm |
Hi Maria,
I’m glad you enjoyed this one. Gina’s Sardinian treats are delicious!
Wednesday, October 14th 2015 at 4:23 pm |
I will keep Gina in my prayers and I would love to try these cookies.
Wednesday, October 14th 2015 at 7:42 pm |
Hi Sandra,
Thanks for the good thoughts for Gina. These cookies are terrific. I hope you try them!
Thursday, October 22nd 2015 at 7:58 am |
Good thoughts and prayers are being sent Gina’s way for a speedy and successful recovery. I think these lovely cookies will be on my Christmas cookie tray. The filling looks delicious and you have decorated them in such a festive way.
Thursday, October 22nd 2015 at 6:33 pm |
Hi Cathy,
I’m sure Gina will appreciate the good vibes – and your Christmas guests will love these treats!
Thursday, October 22nd 2015 at 11:52 pm |
These are so pretty and the recipe sounds fantastic. I love the photos of you making them.
Friday, October 23rd 2015 at 7:51 am |
Hi Pam,
I am so glad you like these. They are delicious, and they’d be perfect for the upcoming holiday season!
Sunday, October 25th 2015 at 3:51 pm |
I totally agree with other comments…a lovely tribute to a wonderful pastry chef. You always make it look so easy and delicious….perfect for this time of the year….thank you Adri!
Monday, October 26th 2015 at 8:14 am |
Ciao Phyllis,
Thanks for the kind words. We’re all pulling for Gina! I hope you try the Copulettas. They are wonderful!
Friday, October 30th 2015 at 3:51 am |
Adri, this is a very touching post to tribute your dear friend Gina. Was over on her Twitter to leave a word of encouragement, and by reading her infrequent tweets, she has had a very difficult battle. Thank you for introducing me.
I am really intrigued how each of Italy’s 12 regions has their own specialties. These pastries from the island of Sardina look AMAZING. Your descriptions of the honey and marmalade made my moth water…haha.
Thank you for sharing! 🙂
~Carl~
Friday, October 30th 2015 at 9:51 am |
Hi Carl,
I am glad this one caught your eye. Gina has been a tremendous influence and inspiration – first through her cooking and pastry making, and now through her extraordinary fight against cancer. Thanks for stopping by!
Saturday, October 31st 2015 at 6:08 am |
My pleasure Adri. Hope you have a wonderful weekend!
Sunday, November 1st 2015 at 7:00 am |
You too Carl!
Thursday, November 5th 2015 at 1:03 am |
Such lovely cookies and a beautiful tribute to Gina. I have her book and now can’t wait to make and share one of my favorites from her expansive collection… My prayers and thoughts are with her.
Thursday, November 5th 2015 at 3:36 pm |
Ciao Annie,
Thanks for stopping by, and for sending your good thoughts to Gina! Un bacione a te!
Friday, November 6th 2015 at 7:05 pm |
Wowza, these pastries look amazing!
Sunday, November 8th 2015 at 8:32 am |
Ciao Cathleen,
Thanks Cathleen. They are tasty treats indeed – just perfect for a holiday cookie tray!
Saturday, November 7th 2015 at 2:50 pm |
Thank you for sharing Ginas touching story with us so we can send her a message of support.
The sweets look wonderful. Great to have you back, Adri.
Sunday, November 8th 2015 at 8:34 am |
Ciao Daniela,
I am hoping that everyone’s good vibes give Gina a lift. She has had a very difficult time. Thank you for stopping by. It’s great to be back. I have been away too long!
Monday, November 9th 2015 at 3:41 am |
Such a sad story. Such a talent unable to create. You have done a wonderful job on her lovely pastries. It is interesting to see this use of Saba.
Monday, November 9th 2015 at 8:22 am |
Hi Tania,
It really is a sad story. I hope Gina recuperates and returns to the kitchen. The saba really does give these a special flavor. It is so unique. Thank you for stopping and for leaving a comment.
Tuesday, December 29th 2015 at 5:24 am |
I’ve never had a pastry like this. It looks amazing. So sweet of you to share the recipe and Gina’s struggle.Wishing both of you a wonderful new year.
Tuesday, December 29th 2015 at 6:41 am |
Hi Barbara,
Thanks. These little treats are really good, a classic Italian treat. We’re all hoping for Gina to get well. Thanks for the good wishes, and happy new year to you!
Thursday, December 31st 2015 at 3:58 am |
Sending Gina positive thoughts and prayers to give her strength during this difficult time. You did a beautiful job sharing her recipe and I love this cookie so much. Wishing your family a safe and happy 2016.
Thursday, December 31st 2015 at 5:20 am |
Hi Bam,
Thank you for your comment It’s great to see you again. Sadly, Gina lost her battle with cancer just yesterday. She fought long and hard, but she was unable to overcome this adversary. She will be missed. I guess this is a lesson that we ought to live very day to the fullest. I hope that 2016 brings all good things to you. Buon anno!
Friday, January 1st 2016 at 10:57 am |
I’m so happy that you are back. The New Year is going to be your year, Adri. I just know it. And look a all this love! What a fantastic community you have built.
Now, this post- its message and recipe is both beautiful and sincere. Thoughts and prayers for Gina, with sprinkles on top. xo
Friday, January 1st 2016 at 11:17 am |
Hi Emilie,
Thanks so much for stopping by. I have been away for too long. Sadly, Gina lost her battle with cancer two days ago, and she passed away, her mother at her side. Gone too soon, she has left us a bountiful ouevre through which she will live on. Un bacione a te.
Wednesday, March 2nd 2016 at 5:58 pm |
This one looks amazing!!! Like the perfect snack!
Thursday, March 3rd 2016 at 11:50 am |
Ciao Peachy,
These are an absolute delight! Thanks for stopping by!