Mastering the Art of French Cooking – The Revolution was Televised
Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume 1
“This is a book for the servantless American cook…” So begins Volume 1 of Mastering the Art of French Cooking, the masterwork of Mmes. Julia Child, Louisette Bertholle and Simone Beck. This month we celebrate fifty years since the book’s publication. Congratulations to all involved in bringing forth this wonderful book. I can not believe it has been that long. I remember when it came out, and did it ever make a splash in my neighborhood.
The dedication reads:
to
La Belle France
whose peasants, fishermen, housewives, and princes-not to mention her chefs – through generations of inventive and loving concentration have created one of the world’s great arts
But the book is not for the French. Not at all, and the authors made that crystal clear in their Foreword when they wrote “In fact the book could well be titled ‘French Cooking from the American Supermarket.'” Their goal was to inculcate fundamental cooking techniques thereby enabling women to “…gradually be able to divorce yourself from a dependence on recipes.” The authors speak of “…a greed for perfection…” that informs the production of a perfectly roasted chicken. But this greed was not reserved to the roasting of a bird. It was this greed for perfection that drove the authors over ten years, countless rewrites and the rejection of publishers, to persevere and ultimately triumph with this masterwork. Call it seminal. Call it revolutionary. This book forever changed the way Americans cook.
For some American housewives it was an easy sell. It really was a perfect storm. With modern conveniences they had more free time. Europe, and France in particular, seemed less foreign after The War. American tourism to Europe was on the upswing, and travelers returned to the U. S. having sampled all the best France had to offer. And they wanted more. Eager to step up their entertaining, and wishing to emulate the sophistication of Jacqueline Kennedy they eagerly purchased Le Creuset and Descoware cookware and got to work. Many women even toted their copies of Mastering the Art to their neighborhood butcher or fishmonger to ensure they were getting the right cut of meat, fowl or fish for the evening’s repast.
For some women, it was a less easy sell. Many women who had lived through the depths of the depression when making dinner was often the supreme act of scrounging, found the thought of sitting shelling peas or making a cake from scratch positively reactionary. Their ascendancy to the middle class with its attendant financial freedom allowed them to purchase convenience foods such as canned petit pois and Duncan Hines cake mixes. They had no intention of returning to days spent in the kitchen. The women of the early sixties were of two minds, most certainly.
And then America met Mrs. Child. Ultimately she became a household name in America with her PBS television show “The French Chef,” and everybody called her Julia. 199 programs were produced between 1963 and 1966, and Americans simply ate it up. Even the die hard afficionados of canned goods and Duncan Hines rethought their cooking philosophy after watching her. Indeed, the revolution was televised.
To Americans Julia Child was the face of the book, and most today do not know there were other authors. Mastering the Art (shorthand among food lovers) with its 524 recipes has remained in print since its publication, selling over one million copies. The book and its companion volume (published in 1970) are close to my heart. I recall one day in 1980 when I told a friend that I wanted to “really learn to cook”, that I wanted to go to cooking school. I asked her if she knew of any cooking schools in town. She said “Forget school. Buy Julia Child’s books, and start cooking.” Sage advice. I followed her advice and got busy. There was Creme Anglaise, Creme Plombieres and Creme Renversee au Caramel. From Volume 2 I recall my first attempt at puff pastry at midnight in my kitchen, the scent of its buttery goodness filling the room, a complete success. After making Boeuf a la Bourguignonne I do not know how many times – I no longer consult a recipe. Mastering the Art of French Cooking worked its magic on me, teaching me fundamental techniques and building my confidence, just as it did for so many others. A treasure now, just as it was on its release October 16, 1961 the book and its companion volume are a must for any serious cook’s library. Happy Birthday, to Mastering the Art!
Visit Julia Child’s kitchen at the Smithsonian online here.
Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Vol. 1
by Julia Child, Louisette Bertholle, Simone Beck
Hardcover, Alfred A. Knopf (October 16, 2001)
752 pages
ISBN-10: 0375413405
ISBN-13: 978-0375413407
I have no affiliation with any product, manufacturer, or site mentioned in this article.
Wednesday, October 26th 2011 at 11:26 pm |
This book hasn’t yet reached my shores, but after this recommendation, I think I’ll give it a go.
Thursday, October 27th 2011 at 8:08 am |
Hi Mette, Definitely give it a go. It is a treasure trove of information. It underwent a tremendous increase in sales after the release of the film Julie and Julia, selling something like 200,000 copies straightaway. It really is a jewel – and if you have never seen Julia Child’s television show The French Chef do take a look. YouTube has lots you can watch. After you get your copy, I would love to hear what you think. Thanks for stopping by.
Thursday, October 27th 2011 at 3:30 am |
A very nice tribute! Thanks for the wonderful historical perspectives of that time. I can just see you in the kitchen making your most PERFECT puff pastry. Having personally witnessed your puff pastry finesse, I know that Mastering the Art has taught you well! And, in turn, I had the privilege of learning from YOU my first time at making puff pastry!
Thursday, October 27th 2011 at 8:20 am |
Thanks, Irene
Those were the days… funny you mention our puff pastry exploits – we certainly went through a great deal of butter. I still remember the looks I garnered at the supermarket with cases of Land o’ Lakes in my cart! Mystery and apprehension continue to surround the process of making it, but I contend it is the easiest of all pastry to get right – as long as one is patient and willing to R&R (roll and refrigerate) along the way. You have such a complete mastery of rolling pastry, what do you think?
Thursday, October 27th 2011 at 6:10 am |
Adri,
Once again you’ve given us such a gift. Thanks for placing this book in context. There is such a richness to it this way. Janet
Thursday, October 27th 2011 at 8:25 am |
Thanks, Janet, I’ve mentioned this before on my site, but one of my fondest memories of Julia Child is watching The French Chef with my dad. He loved her. (She had quite a large male audience.) He often pointed out to me the ease, grace and humor with which she navigated mishaps, a good lesson for us all. If you don’t own a copy, I hope you purchase one. It really is wonderful. Thanks for stopping by!
Thursday, October 27th 2011 at 6:01 pm |
How true! I cooked for years, but didn’t really know how to cook until I starting experimenting with Mastering the Art of French Cooking. I cannot say enough good things about these books (Vol 1 and 2). You will learn so much. My favorite recipes are onion soup and brioche dough made into cinnamon rolls.
Thursday, October 27th 2011 at 8:29 pm |
Hi Vicky, Aren’t they just the grandest books? One of the nicest things for me was, at the point at which I began to use the books, I had no formal training. I had cooked with the family and, of course, in Home Economics in Junior High School. But as I began to work through the books (skipping the live lobster) I was pleased to discover that I knew more than I thought. Mastering the Art got me going in earnest, built my confidence and I never stopped. Can you believe over one million copies have been sold? WOW! Thanks for hanging around the stove!
Friday, October 28th 2011 at 12:59 pm |
Nice reminder of what a great cook book this is
Friday, October 28th 2011 at 5:12 pm |
Hi Anthony, Thanks – it really is a wonderful book. I confess it had languished, along with its companion volume, on my shelf for quite some time – it’s been all Italian all the time around here. But everything she taught built skills for all kinds of cooking. When I heard the fiftieth anniversary of its release had rolled around, I had to dust it off and give it a salute. I am glad to hear you like this one too. Flashy, it is not, but well worn it is. Thanks for stopping by. Will it be French for dinner tonight?
Tuesday, October 22nd 2013 at 10:41 am |
Another beautifully written piece Adri! This book is still a go to reference book on my shelf. And my friend Marisa was so excited with her US measuring cups and spoons because now she could “cook like Julia Child.” Thought you’d enjoy her excitement with Julia as well:
Un ciclone in cucina
Tuesday, October 22nd 2013 at 12:29 pm |
Boujour Laney,
Julia Child made an impression in our neighborhood, and since she hailed from Pasadena, a community close to where I grew up, she was all the more well liked. Thank you for sharing Marisa’s article. What a wide reach Julia Child had.
Wednesday, October 23rd 2013 at 5:33 am |
I have this exact edition – it was my mother’s. She never made one thing from it, as I recall!!! I definitely did not inherit my love love of food and cooking from her, though I am grateful to have this book. : )
Wednesday, October 23rd 2013 at 9:11 am |
Hi Trix,
The book is a standard, and I love it. I recall that on our street every mom had either “The Joy of Cooking” or “The Better Homes and Gardens “Cookbook.” And then Julia rolled into town…