Pumpkin Lasagne ai Quattro Formaggi

Posted November 20, 2011 By Adri

Pumpkin Lasagne

Pumpkin Lasagna with Four Cheeses

This one needs a Family Tree.  So here goes.  I have been a fan of Domenica Marchetti for quite some time.  Lucky me, I won a copy of her newest book, The Glorious Pasta of Italy from Paula Yoo of Write Like You Mean It.  (Great name, Paula.  Great site.)  I had just begun to give the book some serious reading when David Leite of Leite’s Culinaria included Domenica’s recipe for Pumpkin Lasagne in his Weekly Update.  (If you do not already subscribe, sign up for a wealth of information.)  And as if I needed any more convincing, Kathy included the recipe in her Food Lover’s Odyssey (another site not to be missed) Top 10 Italian Recipes from Around the Web. See what I mean about the Family Tree?

Pumpkin Pasta




I had been looking for something different for a first course for Thanksgiving when the Pumpkin Lasagne recipe caught my eye.  Lasagna, why not?  What surprised me was that the pumpkin puree is in the pasta, not between the layers.  By the way – don’t be thrown by lasagne ending with an “e”.  The name of this recipe refers to the multiple sheets of pasta known individually as lasagna.  The final “a” of Italian feminine nouns changes to “e” in the plural.  Mystery solved. Read more… »

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Maccheroni alla Chitarra con Ragù d’Agnello

Posted November 6, 2011 By Adri

From Abruzzo comes Guitar Cut Pasta with Lamb Ragù

Abruzzo Poster

Abruzzo – from the majestic Gran Sasso to its beaches on the Adriatic Sea this part of Italy has postcard perfect terrain. To walk in the mountains of Abruzzo is to walk the age old route of the transumanza – the seasonal sheep migration, and indeed, sheep figure prominently in the socioeconomic history of this region and its cuisine.

Gaetano Crocetti
Gaetano Alfonso Crocetti
Born 1894 Montesilvano, arrived New York 1913, died 1967 Los Angeles, California

My grandfather, Gaetano Crocetti was born in Montesilvano, Abruzzo. He loved the food of his homeland, and although I have written previously about Ferratelle, the Abruzzese take on Pizzelle, this region has as its most singularly recognizable contribution to Italian cookery an implement known as the chitarra, a tool used to cut pasta. In her book Food and Memories of Abruzzo Anna Teresa Callen writes that this tool appears in manuscripts dating as far back as the thirteenth century.

Pasta Chitarra

Indeed la chitarra is part of Abruzzese culture, Read more… »

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Orangecello

Posted November 3, 2011 By Adri

Orange Cello with Glasses
It’s binge blogging again – and this time the subject is Orangecello from the Ventura Limoncello Company. I discovered this delightful liqueur early this Summer as I was finishing up a purchase at K&L Wines here in Hollywood. The fellow who was helping me, knowing I enjoy citrus liqueurs (my regular readers will recall how I rhapsodized about Solerno Blood Orange Liqueur and Acqua di Cedro), suggested I try a bottle of Orangecello. He told me it was the latest release from the Ventura Limoncello Company, a local concern about an hour’s drive from my home. Local. I love local. Further, it had just won a Double Gold at the 2011 San Francisco World Spirits Competition and was flying off their shelves. Local, a winner and popular – that was enough for me. The slender bottle made the trip home with me. Read more… »

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Mastering The Art of French Cooking

Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume 1


 
“This is a book for the servantless American cook…” So begins Volume 1 of Mastering the Art of French Cooking, the masterwork of Mmes. Julia Child, Louisette Bertholle and Simone Beck. This month we celebrate fifty years since the book’s publication. Congratulations to all involved in bringing forth this wonderful book. I can not believe it has been that long. I remember when it came out, and did it ever make a splash in my neighborhood.

The dedication reads:

to
La Belle France
whose peasants, fishermen, housewives, and princes-not to mention her chefs – through generations of inventive and loving concentration have created one of the world’s great arts

But the book is not for the French. Not at all, and the authors made that crystal clear in their Foreword when they wrote “In fact the book could well be titled ‘French Cooking from the American Supermarket.'” Their goal was to inculcate fundamental cooking techniques thereby enabling women to “…gradually be able to divorce yourself from a dependence on recipes.” The authors speak of “…a greed for perfection…” that informs the production of a perfectly roasted chicken. But this greed was not reserved to the roasting of a bird. It was this greed for perfection that drove the authors over ten years, countless rewrites and the rejection of publishers, to persevere and ultimately triumph with this masterwork. Call it seminal. Call it revolutionary. This book forever changed the way Americans cook. Read more… »

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Panna Cotta all’Amaretto

Posted October 20, 2011 By Adri

Another in The Panna Cotta Diaries

Amaretto Panna Cotta

Well, I am back to The Panna Cotta Diaries. I was in the mood. Comfort food. Easy comfort food. For me, that’s Panna Cotta. I decided to use Amaretto, and not just any Amaretto – Luxardo Amaretto di Saschira. If you have never tasted this brand, then you have never tasted Amaretto, the “little bitter” liqueur.

Amaretto
 
Luxardo uses the famous almonds from Avola in the province of Siracusa in the south of Sicily. Real almonds. Some say really the best almonds. Not all brands use almonds, much less the magnificent ones from Avola. Some use lesser quality nuts, peach pits or synthetic flavorings. I mention all this because until I tasted Luxardo, I did not care for Amaretto very much at all. If you think Amaretto is not for you, give the Luxardo a try. I bet that just as I did, you will change your mind.
 
 
The liqueur is a gorgeous clear amber. Open this sleek, slender bottle, and smell the heady scent of the finest marzipan. It is not as sweet as other brands, and the almond taste opens up as the liqueur wraps your mouth in a delicate blanket of almond. This is one luxurious liqueur, and it imparts the most extraordinary burnt sugar and almond flavor to this dessert.

 

 

 

Amaretto Panna Cotta

Amaretto Panna Cotta

makes 6 1/2 cup servings

This Panna Cotta is just in time for elegant winter time dinner parties. I make it with a full 1/4 cup of Amaretto along with almond and vanilla extracts. Don’t skimp on the quality of liqueur. With this much Amaretto, you must use high quality spirits. Go for the good stuff, such as Luxardo. Ditto for the almond extract and vanilla extracts – use a fine brand such as Nielsen-Massey or Sonoma Syrup Co.
 
I tried several amounts of gelatin with this one. I started with 2 1/4 teaspoons, and the set was not firm enough. I upped it right to 3 teaspoons, and it was much too firm – a nerf ball comes to mind. I backed off to 2 ½ teaspoons – it was just a shade too tight, finally settling on a scant 2 ½ teaspoons. Remember though, the set on Panna Cotta is very much a personal choice. So feel free to change the amount up or down. but just remember that you will not need to change it very much. Unless you want a nerf ball, that is. For a photo essay on how to make Panna Cotta and information on how to treat gelatin, see my post on Espresso Panna Cotta.

1 1/2 cups heavy cream
1 1/4 cups whole milk, divided
1/4 cup Amaretto
1/4 cup granulated sugar
scant 2 1/2 teaspoons powdered gelatin
1/2 teaspoon almond extract
1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
chocolate curls to garnish

Pour 1/4 cup milk in shallow bowl. Sprinkle gelatin over milk and soften five minutes. Be sure all the gelatin comes in contact with the milk – otherwise it will not soften properly.

Pour cream, remaining 1 cup milk and sugar in medium saucepan. Stir to combine. Over medium flame, heat to scalding. Do not let mixture boil.

Remove from heat, add softened gelatin, stirring to combine thoroughly. Continue stirring until gelatin has dissolved. The mixture should be quite smooth.

Strain mixture into clean bowl. Add Amaretto and extracts and combine thoroughly.

Set bowl over an ice bath. Stir frequently to promote even cooling until mixture develops the consistency of high-fat heavy cream.

Pour into serving glasses. Cover with plastic and refrigerate 2 hours or overnight.

Garnish with bittersweet chocolate curls for service.

A note: I like to cool the Panna Cotta until it thickens somewhat. That way when I move it from my counter to the refrigerator, it does not shift in the serving glass and I get a perfectly even line of Panna Cotta in the glass. Do avoid the pitfall of letting it get too thick. You will wind up with an uneven surface. I know. I know. Picky, picky.

Amaretto Panna Cotta


Note: You can click on any picture for a larger image, and to see a slide show!

I have no affiliation with any product, manufacturer, or site mentioned in this article.

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Tortelli Caramelle for Columbus Day

Posted October 9, 2011 By Adri

Christopher Columbus del Piombo 1519

The second Monday in October? Hint – the children’s ditty:

“In 1492 Columbus sailed the ocean blue… “

Bravo! You got it. It’s Columbus Day. On this day Cristoforo Colombo or as we know him Christopher Columbus, intrepid explorer and navigator, arrived in the New World, and the Whole World changed forever. There were other momentous goings on that year – the demise of Lorenzo the Magnificent (Lorenzo de Medici, 1449-1492) for one, but today the subject is the gentleman from Genoa, not the nobleman from Florence. The historic arrival date is October 12, 1492, and Columbus Day is a very big deal in the Italian-American community. They stage living tableaux, parties and parades. Schools are closed. Italian flags are flown with pride as Italian-Americans joyously claim their heritage. Read more… »

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