Quaresimali – Chunky Almond Biscotti for Lent

Quaresimali chunky almond biscotti

MAKES 24 COOKIES

The quaresimali found in much of Southern Italy are similar to the cantucci of Northern Italy—what we think of in the United States as biscotti. I found this chewy-centered version at Caffè Tripoli in Martina Franca (Puglia). Loaded with chopped toasted almonds, they are my new favor­ite cookie.
Traditionally made for Quaresima, or Lent, when no fat was to be used in cooking, these cookies lack the egg yolks found in other biscotti. However, the rich sheen on the ones I found in Puglia looked suspiciously as if they had been glazed with an egg yolk wash, which makes sense because the cookies contain egg whites.
The second baking (the “bis” in biscotti) is not imperative. Baked only once, they have an appealing chewy texture. Even better, though, is the contrast of chew and crunch that comes from crisping the outside with a second baking.

2 cups (300 g) almonds, toasted lightly
1 cup (200 g) sugar
1/2 cup (66 g) all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons packed minced candied orange peel (see below or page 193 of the book)
Finely grated zest of one orange
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 large egg, separated
1 large egg white
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 teaspoon water

Preheat the oven to 350°F (177°C) with a rack in the center. Line a bak­ing sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat.
Pulse the almonds in a food processor until they are chopped to a medium size. Tap the work bowl on the counter to bring the largest pieces to the top, pull those out, and chop them by hand to a medium-fine texture. (Continuing to process the nuts will make the smaller pieces too fine.) Transfer all of the chopped almonds to a bowl and add the sugar, flour, candied orange peel, zest, and cinnamon. Stir with a fork to combine.
Use a fork to whisk the 2 egg whites with the vanilla in a small bowl until foamy. Make a well in the middle of the almond mixture and add the whites. Mix well, starting with a fork and continuing with your hands to form a sticky dough that holds together when you press it. Divide the dough in two and place one piece along one long side of the prepared pan. Shape the dough into an 11-inch by 21/2-inch loaf that is about 3/4 inch high. Make a second loaf with the remaining dough parallel to the first one.
Whisk the egg yolk with the water in a small bowl. Brush the egg wash over the tops of the dough.
Bake until golden brown all over, about 25 minutes, rotating the pan front to back halfway through baking. Let the loaves cool on the sheet until you can easily handle them, about 15 minutes. Leave the oven on.
Trim the ends from the loaves (enjoy as a snack) and cut each loaf into twelve slices about 3/4 inch wide. Return the slices to the baking sheet, cut side down, and bake for 5 to 10 minutes to dry them.
Store the cookies in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

Scorze d’Arance Candite candied orange peel

Makes about 35 pieces | Gluten Free

Each year in early spring, using the last oranges from our abundant backyard crop, I make candied orange peels to last throughout the year. What does not get used in cannoli, gelato, and other desserts will surely be enjoyed as candy, on its own or dipped in melted dark chocolate, or given to friends as holiday gifts. You can purchase candied orange peels, but they are costly and are never as good as homemade. Blanching the peels five times removes their bitterness and enhances their texture and flavor.

Choose organic fruit that has not been sprayed or coated with wax, because you’ll be eating the peels. Segment the leftover orange flesh and add it to fruit salads, squeeze it for juice, or use it to make Marmellata di Arance (page 194 of the book).

5 large navel oranges with thick peels
4 cups (800 g) granulated sugar, plus more for coating
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 cups (480 ml) water

Use a paring knife to cut the peel from the orange, pith and all, in wide strips running from top to bottom. They will have an elongated diamond shape, about 1 inch at the widest point.

Put the peels into a large soup pot and cover them generously with cool water. Bring to a boil, boil for 2 minutes, and drain. Repeat the boiling and draining twice more. Return the peels to the pot, cover with cold water until cool enough to handle, then drain.

Lay one strip skin side down on a flat surface and use a paring knife running parallel to the rind to cut away most of the white pith inside, leaving about 1/8 inch of pith along with the peel. Repeat with the remaining strips. (Discard the trimmings.) Return the peels to the pot, cover with cold water, and blanch two more times as before, for a total of five blanchings. Drain the peels and set aside.

Stir the sugar, lemon juice, and water in the pot. Bring to a boil and simmer for 15 minutes to slightly thicken the syrup. Add the peels and cook until they are shiny and translucent, about 1 hour. Remove the pot from the heat and let the peels plump in the syrup overnight.

Transfer the peels to a wire rack set over a rimmed baking sheet to dry. As you remove each peel from the syrup, run it between your thumb and forefinger to squeeze any excess syrup back into the pot. When the peels are no longer tacky—24 to 48 or more hours later—transfer the peels, a few at a time, to a shallow bowl of sugar, tossing to coat them well. Return the peels to the rack to dry overnight.

Transfer the peels to an airtight container with parchment paper separating the layers and store in the freezer, where they will keep for at least a year.