Ravioli alla cavarola

Quilted ravioli

Mom’s pink satin quilt. Filled with the finest goose down, it was the epitome of bedroom comfort. She did not use it all the time. It was a special sort of a quilt, one we kids used only when we were sick. Good and sick, and the arrival of the quilt meant that this sore throat, belly ache or earache was the real deal.

My mom was not the kind of mom who ran to the doctor for every little thing. Not even close. Just ask my brothers and sister if you do not believe me. That is why we knew that when we got the quilt something serious was cooking. It meant that at any moment Dr. Cobley, the family pediatrician, might walk into the bedroom. Yes, Virginia, I am that old. I came of age in the era when physicians made house calls.

The arrival of the physician was a very big production, and the child in the bed, the one under the pink satin quilt, was the star. The family awaited the ring of the door bell. Greetings were exchanged and thanks proffered sotto voce in the entry hall. Coffee was offered and refused. The doctor was escorted down the hall to the child’s bedside. As he walked through the house, family members stood respectfully aside; children who normally would have run from the man stood fearlessly saying hello, having deduced that since they were not the one cocooned under satin and down, they need not fear being the object of the learned man’s attentions. Neighbors stood outside; one or two women might even come through the front door, seeking to offer assistance.

In the end, the doctor pronounced the child sick, but already on the road to recovery, mamma’s love and her quilt being the first steps on that proverbial road. Coffee was once again offered, and this time graciously accepted. Mamma was told to report any change for the worse, but the physician was quite certain that no such report would be forthcoming.

The next step was special food. It might be chicken broth with fideo, perhaps Zuppa pavese or even Passatelli, and maybe, just maybe, cheese ravioli in brodo. There was an ascending order of complexity of dishes, each commensurate with the degree of illness. In honor of the pink satin quilt, childhood illness and recovery, my mother and Dr. Cobley, I offer you Quilted Ravioli.

 
 
 
I used a cavarola board to imprint a herringbone pattern on the pasta, which I then filled and cut. There was a time when every Pugliese housewife had her own cavarola board and used it to make the region’s traditional pasta, stracenate. Nowadays cavarola boards can be difficult to find. If you have a Pugliese nonna, I suggest you check her attic. You might get lucky. But here again Terry Mirri of Artisanal Pasta Tools fills the void for traditionalists. He will fashion a cavarola board for you from beech, cherry or oak. Like memories of the pink satin quilt, these sturdy boards will last for generations.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

I decided to toss the ravioli in butter for a satisfying primo piatto. The quality of the butter you use is integral to the success of this dish.

In fact, this is the perfect place to use one of the many fine Italian butters now available in the U.S. Delitia brand is a favorite. Made from pasteurized cream from cows raised in the area of production of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, this butter is light with a floral background. The butter is extremely smooth with the taste of pure cream. It may appear dry, but in fact the water is dispersed throughout in extremely small droplets. It is made from the same milk that is used to produce Parmigiano Reggiano.

Years ago, after having been given a treasure trove of these Italian butters, I asked Lidia Bastianich just how I ought to use them. Was there a dish that absolutely would not be the same without them, I asked? Came the response: “The best way to highlight this butter is not to alter it by cooking it, so some gentle heat would be fine like tossing some pasta, finishing a risotto or just spreading it on some good crusty bread would be best.” So there you have it, from the master herself. Buy some butter, make some ravioli, and enjoy a feast for the eyes as well as the senses. Buon appetito!

Quilted Ravioli

makes about 50, depending on size cut

These delicately flavored ravioli are delicious when tossed in melted butter and topped with grated cheese and parsley. If you want a bit more flavor, slice 2 cloves of garlic, melt the butter, and allow the garlic to infuse the warm butter for about 10 minutes. These ravioli are also delicious served “alla Mamma”, cooked and set in a bowl of brodo di pollo, chicken stock.

Pasta
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon semolina
2 large eggs
1/4 cup olive oil
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
2 tablespoons water

Place flour, semolina and salt in workbowl of food processor fitted with metal blade. Pulse 3 times to blend. In a 1 cup measuring cup lightly beat eggs with olive oil and water. With processor running, add egg mixture, scraping measuring cup clean. Allow processor to run forty seconds. Mixture should come together into a ball. If it does not, add a bit more water. Remove from processor, knead 1 minute. Wrap in plastic and set aside to rest thirty minutes.

Filling
8 ounces whole milk ricotta
1 egg yolk
1/2 cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano OR Grana Padano
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1/8 teaspoon freshly gated nutmeg

Combine all ingredients in medium bowl. Refrigerate until ready to use.

To form ravioli
Roll dough by hand to a thickness of 1/8 inch.

Place 8 inch long piece of dough on floured cavarola board. Imprint by rolling floured materello ( rolling pin) over dough.

Lift dough from board, and position on floured counter. Place ½ tablespoon drops of filling just off center along the length of the dough. Using a pastry brush dipped in water, brush dough between each spot of filling and along edge where you will fold dough to form ravioli.

Fold dough over filling. Press gently to remove air pockets. Cut with knife or ravioli stamp. If using knife, press edges of each raviolo together using a fork dipped in flour.

Place ravioli on semolina lined towels as you work. Refrigerate ravioli if you are not going to cook them straightaway. You may freeze ravioli for up to two months. To freeze, spread ravioli on a cookie sheet in one layer. Place in freezer until frozen, about 2 hours. Place in freezer safe containers in layers separated by parchment or waxed paper.

To cook and serve
3 tablespoons (or more) unsalted butter and optional garlic for tossing in saute pan*
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
freshly cracked black pepper
grated Parmigiano OR Grana Padano to pass at the table

Bring 4 quarts of water to a rolling boil. Add 3 tablespoons salt. Lower heat to gentle boil. Add ravioli. Cook about 2 to 4 minutes, until done.

Meanwhile in a saute pan, melt enough unsalted butter to coat ravioli. Add sliced garlic, if desired.** Transfer cooked ravioli and 2 tablespoons pasta water to saute pan, and toss to coat. Remove from heat. Add parsley and freshly cracked black pepper. Toss to coat. Serve with grated Parmigiano OR Grana Padano.

*If you are making this for someone who is ill, I suggest you not use the garlic.

**To use sliced garlic: allow flavors to infuse by adding garlic to saute pan containing warm melted butter. Off heat, let pan rest 10 minutes.

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I have no affiliation with any product, manufacturer, or site mentioned in this article.