Torta di limone verde e mascarpone, la ricetta

Lime and Mascarpone Torta – Everything old is new again

I love this torta – it is light yet satisfying with a tender crust and a lime filling that delivers great citrus flavor without a heavy does of tartness.

For those of you who have a fear of pastry – let me give you a couple of tips. First, start with easy to roll doughs like this one. Known in Italian as pasta frolla (tender crust), this shortcrust is sturdy and tender. The term “short” refers to the length of the gluten strands, the protein that gives the crust its body. Gluten needs water to form, and if less water is present, less gluten will form, and the crust will be more tender. Pasta frolla uses butter, eggs (often only yolk), and frequently cream or other fat with a lower moisture content than water. These crusts, unlike classic American pie crust, also contain sugar, which while contributing to browning, is also hygroscopic, leaving even less water in the dough to form gluten. Because these strands are short, the crust, while not flaky, is tender. The extra fat from the addition of egg, cream, or in this case mascarpone, renders these doughs very easy to roll. Most recipes for pasta frolla call for Italian baking powder which contains two leaveners and powdered vanilla. It gives the crust a bit of lift and flavor, while contributing to tenderness and browning.

About the subtitle “Everything old is new again.” If you are looking for rolling ease and perfect pastry – buy a pastry cloth and rolling pin cover. These tools allow you to use less flour while rolling, and less flour means better crust. It is that simple. Pastry cloths are made of muslin or canvas and often have the added advantage of printed circles to take the guesswork out of rolling a crust. The rolling pin cover is an elastic sock that slips tightly over the pin. These are old fashioned tools that went out of style when I was a child. Before you begin, rub a few tablespoons of flour into the cloth and rolling pin cover. Roll your dough, being sure to frequently give it a quarter turn as you work. You will find that you will need far less flour than usual, and your dough will not stick. Use these tools once, and you will never want to be without them. I use a very spiffy set available on Amazon – the pastry cloth fits over a frame that attaches to the edge of the counter holding it steady while you roll.

I have adapted this filling from one that I learned from Carolyn Thacker. I first met her when I was a student at Montana Mercantile in Santa Monica in the early eighties. With an extraordinary depth of knowledge that extends to all facets of cooking and a generous dose of humanity and integrity to match, she is one of the finest teachers I have ever had the pleasure to know. Thank you Carolyn, for this recipe and for all you taught me over the years. Much of the cook I am today is because of you.

Torta di limone verde e mascarpone

makes 1 8-inch torta

For this dessert you will need 8 ounces of Mascarpone. 1/4 cup (2 ounces) will go in the crust, and the remainder (6 ounces) will go in the filling. I used Bearss limes which are also known as Persian or Tahitian limes.

Crust
2 1/4 cups 00 flour
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon lievito Rebecchi (OR 1/2 teaspoon American style baking powder + 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract)
1 1/2 sticks (6 ounces) cold unsalted butter cut in 24 equal size pieces
1/4 cup Mascarpone
1 large egg plus 1 large egg yolk

Whipped cream
1 cup whipping cream
2 teaspoons granulated sugar
1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract

Lime Mascarpone Filling
1 cup minus 1 tablespoon granulated sugar
4 tablespoons cornstarch
2 ounces (1/4 cup) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 tablespoon Bearss lime zest
1/3 cup fresh Bearss lime juice
6 ounces Mascarpone

Lime twist for garnish

Make the crust

Place flour, sugar, salt and lievito (or baking powder) in workbowl of food processor fitted with metal blade and pulse 3 times to blend.

Remove workbowl cover and distribute cold butter pieces over flour mixture. Replace cover and pulse on and off until mixture resembles coarse crumbs.

Combine egg, egg yolk and mascarpone (and vanilla extract, if using) in measuring cup. With processor running, pour into feed tube, scraping all of mixture from cup. Process until mixture clumps. Do not allow mixture to form a ball. Remove dough from processor. Form into disk and refrigerate 30 minutes to 1 hour.

Remove dough from refrigerator ten to fifteen minutes before rolling. Straight from the refrigerator it will be difficult to roll, and the edges may crack. Using a pastry cloth and rolling pin cover, roll dough to 1/16th inch. Fold dough in half and position it over 8-inch tart pan with removable bottom. Unfold dough and ease into pan being careful not to stretch dough. Pick up tart pan by the sides, being careful not to exert pressure on the bottom. Place in freezer thirty minutes.

Blind bake crust

Place oven rack in lower third of oven, and place pizza stone on rack.

Preheat oven to 425 degrees thirty minutes prior to baking.

Cut a 14 inch long piece of non-stick aluminum foil (or parchment paper). This will be enough to cover the bottom and sides of an 8 inch tart pan with removable bottom, or an 8 inch flan ring and extend up a bit so you can lift the foil (or parchment) out.

Place foil non-stick side down (in contact with crust) and press gently to conform with the contour of the crust. Be sure to press foil or parchment against sides of crust.

Fill tart pan with dry beans or pie weights, making sure beans press against sides of pan. Place in oven and bake 18 minutes. Remove foil and weights. Bake 2 to 5 minutes more, checking to see that edges do not over brown. Remove from oven and place on rack to cool completely.

Make whipped cream

Combine whipping cream, sugar and vanilla in large bowl. Beat to soft peaks. Refrigerate, covered, until ready to use.

Make lime mascarpone filling

To prevent lumping, whisk sugar and cornstarch together in 2 quart saucepan. Whisk in lime juice, and blend completely.

Add butter, zest and 1/2&1/2, and place over medium heat. Bring to a boil, stirring frequently, scraping sides and bottom of pan. Reduce heat slightly and cook, stirring very frequently, until thick and smooth.

Remove from heat and pour through a sieve set over a medium bowl, pressing filling through sieve. Scrape filling off bottom of sieve using clean spatula. Cool to room temperature, stirring occasionally. Add room temperature mascarpone and blend well. Pour cooled filling into cool shell. Smooth top. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

To serve

Decorate with sweetened whipped cream rosettes or serve with a dollop of whipped cream. Top with very thin slices of lime.

I have no affiliation with any product, manufacturer, or site mentioned in this article.