{"id":3333,"date":"2011-11-06T20:33:33","date_gmt":"2011-11-07T04:33:33","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/adribarrcrocetti.com\/main\/?p=3333"},"modified":"2014-12-04T22:09:19","modified_gmt":"2014-12-05T06:09:19","slug":"maccheroni-alla-chitarra-con-ragu-dagnello","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/adribarrcrocetti.com\/main\/maccheroni-alla-chitarra-con-ragu-dagnello\/","title":{"rendered":"Maccheroni alla Chitarra con Ragù d’Agnello"},"content":{"rendered":"

From Abruzzo comes Guitar Cut Pasta with Lamb Ragù<\/em><\/h4>\n

\"Abruzzo<\/a><\/p>\n

Abruzzo<\/a> – from the majestic Gran Sasso to its beaches on the Adriatic Sea<\/a> this part of Italy has postcard perfect terrain. To walk in the mountains of Abruzzo is to walk the age old route of the transumanza – the seasonal sheep migration, and indeed, sheep figure prominently in the socioeconomic history of this region and its cuisine.<\/p>\n

\"Gaetano<\/a>
\nGaetano Alfonso Crocetti
\nBorn 1894 Montesilvano, arrived New York 1913, died 1967 Los Angeles, California<\/p>\n

My grandfather, Gaetano Crocetti was born in Montesilvano, Abruzzo. He loved the food of his homeland, and although I have written previously about Ferratelle<\/a>, the Abruzzese take on Pizzelle, this region has as its most singularly recognizable contribution to Italian cookery an implement known as the chitarra, a tool used to cut pasta. In her book Food and Memories of Abruzzo<\/em><\/a> Anna Teresa Callen writes that this tool appears in manuscripts dating as far back as the thirteenth century.<\/p>\n

\"Pasta<\/a><\/p>\n

Indeed la chitarra is part of Abruzzese culture, part and parcel. In dialect it is known as lo carrature or maccarunare. Evenly spaced metal wires are tightly strung along the length of the chitarra. On one side the strings are set farther apart than on the other, enabling the cook to make maccheroni of two different widths.<\/p>\n

\"Pasta<\/a>Set on a slant in the middle of the chitarra, running lengthwise between the two sets of wires is a wooden board that catches the maccheroni as it falls through the strings. It is simple to use – a sheet of pasta is rolled flat and placed atop the “strings”. A rolling pin (materello) is passed over the sheet of pasta forcing the sheet through the strings, cutting it into noodles. Many homes have more than one chitarra in order that they might make many different sizes of maccheroni. In fact Bart recalls that his Aunt Mary, chief pasta maker of his family, had several, each of which made different sizes of maccheroni. Her husband, Ralph made them for her.<\/p>\n

And about that word, maccheroni – although you will often see pasta made in this manner called Spaghetti alla Chitarra, or Pasta alla Chitarra, the name that is authentic, the name the Abruzzese use is maccheroni. Not to put too fine a point on it, but don’t call it Spaghetti alla Chitarra if you are talking about this kind of pasta with an Abruzzese. They just don’t like it. The name they prefer is Maccheroni alla Chitarra. I have it on the best authority.<\/p>\n

You will encounter many different dough recipes for use with a chitarra, but they all have one thing in common – they are quite firm, and thus somewhat more difficult to manage than other doughs. The unique feature of the hearty maccheroni made on a chitarra is the square edges that are formed when the dough is cut by the metal strings. In order to keep those square edges when cooked, the dough must be firm. The doughs can be made with semolina, all-purpose flour, bread flour or a combination. All contain eggs, and some call for salt.<\/p>\n

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\"Pasta<\/a>A few words about the care of a chitarra – do not immerse it in water. Do that and you will have to buy a new one. Treat it as you would your pasta machine; a simple dusting off with a brush or towel after use is sufficient to clean this tool. Just as with a musical instrument, over time, the strings will loosen, and you will have to tighten them. When purchasing a chitarra, select one with tuning pegs<\/em> to tighten the strings. It is important to keep a chitarra tuned<\/em> because if the strings are not taut, you will not be able to cut the pasta.<\/p>\n

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\"Maccheroni<\/a><\/p>\n

Maccheroni alla Chitarra con Ragù d’Agnello<\/em><\/h4>\n
serves 4 as a main dish<\/h6>\n

Ragù d’Agnello – Lamb Ragù<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

\"Lamb<\/a><\/p>\n

This is shepherd’s food, and it is just as much about the meat as the tomato sauce – it’s all about flavor development, and that comes with browning and reduction. It never pays to rush a ragù.
\nSome recipes call for ground lamb, but I prefer to chop it in very small pieces. I like the texture of the small chunks of meat in the sauce, rather than the homogenous effect of ground meat. Additionally, many cooks use shoulder meat, but I prefer the milder taste of leg. If you want something other than maccheroni, try this ragù over polenta. It is wonderful.<\/p>\n

I used a Mazzoni 2007 Toscana Rosso<\/a>. This blend of Sangiovese and Merlot lent an intensely elegant base note to this ragù. At table its glorious deep red was cause for conversation and its substantial body made it the perfect accompaniment for this hearty dish.<\/p>\n

3 tablespoons olive oil
\n1 red onion, cut in fine dice
\n2 carrots, diced
\n1 rib celery, diced
\n1 pound lamb (leg or shoulder), trimmed of fat, chopped in 1\/4 inch chunks
\n3 1\/2 ounces pancetta, cut in 1\/4 inch dice
\n28 ounces canned whole peeled tomatoes, preferably San Marzano D.O.P.
\n1\/2 cup dry red wine
\n1 cup chicken stock
\n1 bay leaf
\n6 inch sprig rosemary
\npinch peperoncino flakes
\nsalt and pepper
\nmint to finish
\nPecorino and Parmigiano at the table<\/p>\n

Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil over medium heat in a large non-reactive Dutch oven. Add onions and salt and saute 4 to 5 minutes until translucent, but not browned. Add carrots, celery, pancetta and peperoncino flakes. Saute until vegetables are soft and slightly caramelized, and pancetta has browned a bit, about 10 to 12 minutes. Add lamb and saute until well browned and all liquid has boiled off, about 10 minutes. Add red wine and cook, scraping any brown bits off the bottom of the pan until wine has reduced completely, 5 to 6 minutes.<\/p>\n

\"Lamb<\/a><\/p>\n

A wooden spatula drawn across the bottom of the pan should leave a broad, dry trail. If liquid seeps right back and fills in the trail – you’re not there yet. Keep cooking.<\/p>\n

Meanwhile break up tomatoes with your hands or scissors.<\/p>\n

\"Lamb<\/a><\/p>\n

Add tomatoes and juice, stock, bay leaf and rosemary. Partially cover pot and simmer over medium low heat, stirring occasionally to prevent scorching, until thickened and deeply colored, about 1 3\/4 hours. Remove and discard bay leaf and rosemary stem. (The leaves will have fallen off the rosemary stem by this point, are quite soft and pose no threat.) Taste for seasoning.<\/p>\n

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Maccheroni<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

\"Maccheroni<\/a><\/p>\n

This dough is quite firm. Frankly, it has a mind of its own, and I prefer to make it in my food processor and roll it into sheets by machine. Should you wish to make it by hand, you most certainly may. It just takes a bit of muscle.<\/p>\n

1 cup semolina
\n1\/2 cup 00 flour
\n2 large eggs
\n1\/2 teaspoon salt
\nsemolina or flour for rolling<\/p>\n

Place semolina, flour and salt in food processor fitted with steel blade. Pulse 3 times to combine. Crack eggs into 1 cup measuring cup and beat lightly.<\/p>\n

\"Maccheroni<\/a>\"Maccheroni<\/a><\/p>\n

With processor running, add eggs in a steady stream. Allow machine to run as mixture blends and finally comes together in a ball. If mixture is too dry, you may have to add a bit of water. Process 20 seconds.<\/p>\n

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\"Kneading<\/a>\"Maccheroni<\/a><\/p>\n

Turn dough out onto counter and knead about 3 minutes, until smooth. Form into disk, wrap in plastic and allow dough to rest 30 minutes.<\/p>\n

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\"Maccheroni<\/a><\/p>\n

After dough has rested, cut off 1\/4 of the dough, keeping the unused portion wrapped.<\/p>\n

\"Rolling<\/a><\/p>\n

Roll into sheets 1\/8 inch thick either by hand or with a pasta machine.<\/p>\n

\"Cutting<\/a><\/p>\n

Place floured sheet of pasta atop strings of chitarra leaving at least one inch between each end of pasta sheet and ends of chitarra strings. If pasta sheet is too long, it will be difficult to roll and cut the ends.<\/p>\n

\"Cutting<\/a><\/p>\n

With very firm pressure slowly roll a floured rolling pin back and forth over the sheet of pasta several times paying particular attention to the ends. A quick glance will tell you if the pasta sheet has been cut – if you see the wire peeking through the surface of the pasta, just “strum” your finger across the sheet of pasta and it will finish cutting and fall through the strings onto the board below. If, on the other hand, it appears that the pasta has not been cut, don’t despair.<\/p>\n

\"Cutting<\/a><\/p>\n

Just roll across a few more times, and the maccheroni will cut.<\/p>\n

\"Dusting<\/a><\/p>\n

Tip the chitarra to the side, and the maccheroni will fall out onto your work surface. Pick up maccheroni, toss lightly with semolina, form into nests, and place on semolina lined towel to dry slightly.<\/p>\n

\"Boiling<\/a><\/p>\n

Bring 6 quarts of water to rolling boil. Add 3 tablespoons coarse sea salt. When water returns to the boil add maccheroni. Cook just until done, about 3 minutes.<\/p>\n

\"Maccheroni<\/a><\/p>\n

To serve, spoon a cup of ragù onto the bottom of a warmed pasta bowl. Add cooked maccheroni, top with more ragù and toss. If ragù is too thick, add pasta water, tablespoon by tablespoon tossing after each addition, until desired consistency is reached. Scatter a few mint leaves on top. Serve at once. Pass Pecorino or Parmigiano.<\/p>\n

\"Maccheroni<\/a><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Note: You can click on any picture for a larger image, and to see a slide show with even more pictures!<\/em><\/p>\n

I have no affiliation with any product, manufacturer, or site mentioned in this article.<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

\n
\"Rolling<\/a>
\n\"Cutting<\/a>
\n\"Abruzzo-Stamp-286x476-A\"<\/a>
\n\"Abruzzo-Stamp-473x357-B\"<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

From Abruzzo comes Guitar Cut Pasta with Lamb Ragù Abruzzo – from the majestic Gran Sasso to its beaches on the Adriatic Sea this part of Italy has postcard perfect terrain. To walk in the mountains of Abruzzo is to walk the age old route of the transumanza – the seasonal sheep migration, and indeed, […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[146,3,14,59],"tags":[109,976,978,981,234,309,980,107,975,986,982,974,979,987,108,63,233,989,313,853,984,985,983,988,977],"class_list":["post-3333","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-la-storia-di-crocetti","category-default","category-personalities","category-recipes","tag-abruzzo","tag-adriatic-sea","tag-anna-teresa-callen","tag-carrature","tag-chitarra","tag-ferratelle","tag-food-and-memories-of-abruzzo","tag-gaetano-crocetti","tag-gran-sasso","tag-lamb-ragu","tag-maccarunare","tag-maccheroni","tag-maccheroni-alla-chitarra","tag-mazzoni","tag-montesilvano","tag-parmigiano","tag-pasta-alla-chitarra","tag-pecorino","tag-pizzelle","tag-polenta","tag-ragu","tag-ragu-dagnello","tag-spaghetti-alla-chitarra","tag-toscana-rosso-2007","tag-transumanza"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/pYzzK-RL","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/adribarrcrocetti.com\/main\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3333","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/adribarrcrocetti.com\/main\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/adribarrcrocetti.com\/main\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adribarrcrocetti.com\/main\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adribarrcrocetti.com\/main\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3333"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/adribarrcrocetti.com\/main\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3333\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":7759,"href":"https:\/\/adribarrcrocetti.com\/main\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3333\/revisions\/7759"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/adribarrcrocetti.com\/main\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3333"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adribarrcrocetti.com\/main\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3333"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adribarrcrocetti.com\/main\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3333"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}