![\"Cicerchie-MS-Kale-Soup\"](\"https:\/\/adribarrcrocetti.com\/main\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/04\/Cicerchie-MS-Kale-Soup-640x430-5255_1170.jpg\")
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What beans! What character! The humble cicerchie<\/em>, Lathyrus sativus<\/em>, with their hearty flavor have been a character on the world food scene for thousands of years. Paleobotanists have determined that cicerchie came to ancient Rome from Greece, having first made their way from the Near East along the northern coast of the Mediterranean. The ancient Romans called the legume cicercula<\/em>, and the march of the Roman legions was fueled on soup made from them. Because cicerchie grow well in high altitudes and cool climates they have traditionally played a large part in the cuisine and farming of the central and southern Apennines, especially Abruzzo where they sustained the poor through good times and bad. Cicerchie farming and consumption decreased after WW II, but a resurgence is underway, thanks to the burgeoning interest in traditional foods and sustainable agriculture both in Italy and worldwide.<\/p>\n However, cicerchie have one characteristic that sets them apart and is worth addressing. They contain the neurotoxic amino acid ODAP<\/em> (beta-oxalyl-diaminopropionic acid<\/em>) associated with neurolathyrism<\/em>, a neurodegenerative disease leading to paralysis of the lower limbs and muscle wasting. As soon as I mentioned this to Bart, his spoon stopped midway to his mouth. I realized research was in order, as was better timing.<\/p>\n Cicerchie, I learned, can grow in a variety of soils, including poor ones. They exhibit greater resistance to pests than other legumes. Additionally they are often the only crop to grow in harsh conditions brought on by drought or in lands devastated by war, and this is where the trouble comes in. Sadly, under these circumstances the legume becomes a staple, in fact, often the sole source of sustenance for the stricken people, and for many who consume it neurolathyrism sets in. Cicerchie are Mother Nature’s double edged sword.<\/p>\n Francisco Goya’s Guerra<\/p><\/div>\n Above is an aquatint etching from The Disasters of War<\/em>, Goya’s series on the ravages of Spain’s war against the French, 1808- 1814. Here the artist depicts a woman unable to rise due to paralysis resulting from neurolathyrism. She is being aided by those around her, emaciated individuals whose gaunt faces mirror the effects of the Madrid Famine of 1811-1812.<\/p>\n I contacted Prof. Dr. Fernand Lambein of the Institute for Plant Biotechnology<\/em> at the University of Ghent in Belgium. He is the coordinator of the of the Cassava Cyanide Diseases and Neurolathyrism Network<\/em><\/a> and editor and publisher of their newsletter. I am very grateful to him for his generosity in answering my questions about neurolathyrism in general and cicerchie in particular. He offered his opinion in real terms of safe levels of consumption. Please note he uses grass pea<\/em>, another name for cicerchie.<\/p>\n I estimate that about 50 kg of grass pea seed, consumed in continuation over a minimum time, say two months, can give a 6% chance of inducing neurolathyrism. In short, casual consumption of grass pea as one component of an otherwise balanced diet, bears not any risk of toxicity.<\/p>\n …Dr. Fernand Lambein<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n Thanks to Professor Lambein, Bart can breathe easily, and his spoon can finish its long interrupted journey to his mouth. See Food Nerd Notes<\/em><\/a> below to read more of Professor Lambein\u2019s comments.<\/p>\n Dried cicerchie look like small off-white dehydrated kernels of corn. They must be soaked for a full twenty-four hours prior to cooking, during which time they will swell and take on a yellowish cast. As with other dried legumes, I do not add salt to the cooking water until they have softened to avoid toughening the skin.<\/p>\n Cicerchie can be hard to find, although some specialty markets do carry them. I have tried several brands, but I have been particularly pleased with those from La Valletta Farm<\/a>, a family owned company devoted to sustainable agricultural practices and the traditional grains and legumes of Italy. Their products arrive clean, free of stones and debris and whole, not in pieces as is the case with some brands. Their line of grains and legumes are available from Gustiamo<\/a>.<\/p>\n This hearty soup, packed full of vegetables and protein rich cicerchie, gets a flavor boost from the addition of basil pesto. I prefer to slice the onions very thinly rather than mince them. The soup is much more attractive sporting slices rather than tiny pieces of onion floating about the surface.<\/p>\n For the soup<\/em> Rinse and pick over the cicerchie, discarding any discolored beans. Place in them in a large bowl and cover with 3 inches of cool water. Soak for 24 hours, changing the water two or three times as it clouds.<\/p>\n Discard any pieces of the tough indigestible outer skin that come away.<\/p>\n Drain and rinse the cicerchie. Transfer them to a 4-quart pot, and cover with 3 inches of cold water. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce to lively simmer, and continue cooking until the beans begin to soften, about 40 minutes, skimming off and discarding foam.<\/p>\n Meanwhile, pour olive oil into a separate heavy bottom 6-quart Dutch oven. Add the sliced onions and \u00bd teaspoon peperoncino flakes. Cover and cook over low to medium low heat about for 20 minutes, or until the onions have begun to caramelize, stirring occasionally to prevent scorching.<\/p>\n Remove the cover, add the celery and carrots, cook 15 minutes more. Add the stock. Drain the cicerchie and add them to the pan. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce to a simmer and continue cooking about 30 minutes more, or until the beans are done to your liking. Add chopped kale, peas, \u00bd teaspoon peperoncino flakes (or more if desired) and 1 teaspoon salt.<\/p>\n Cook about 15 minutes more, until kale has softened. Add a generous dose of freshly ground black pepper, and check for seasoning, adding more salt, pepper and peperoncino if desired. Ladle into bowls, top with a tablespoon of pesto, and serve.<\/p>\n Combine, basil, oil, and garlic in workbowl of food processor fitted with metal knife. Process the ingredients until finely ground and thoroughly combined. Scrape the pesto into a small bowl, add cheese and combine well. If you are not using the pesto right away, cover it with a thin film of olive oil to prevent oxidation. Store it in the refrigerator up to one week.<\/p>\n
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<\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\nCicerchie and Black Kale Soup<\/em><\/h4>\n
<\/p>\nserves 6<\/h6>\n
\n12 ounces dried cicerchie
\n1 yellow onion, halved top to bottom and sliced very thinly
\n2 ribs celery, cut in \u00bc inch dice
\n3 carrots, cut in \u00bc inch dice
\n1 \u00bd bunches black kale, cut crosswise in \u00bd inch ribbons, inner stem removed and discarded
\n\u00be cup green peas, fresh or frozen
\n4 cups brodo di pollo ( chicken broth)
\n1-2 teaspoons peperoncino flakes (red pepper flakes)
\nSalt and pepper
\n3 tablespoons olive oil<\/p>\n
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<\/p>\n<\/a>For the pesto<\/em>
\n1 cup basil leaves, packed
\n1 clove garlic
\n\u00bc cup olive oil
\n2 tablespoons grated Parmigiano-Reggiano<\/p>\n
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