Fonte di Foiano Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Maccheroni alla Chitarra with Roasted Tomatoes
Extra virgin olive oil is the new wine. Like fine wine, it is a delicate thing, its quality a function of the olive varietal or cultivar (type of olive) from which it is made, the area and conditions under which the fruit is grown, and harvesting time and technique. Factor in the art and skill of the makers who press and blend the oil, and you will get a sense of what I mean.
Just as wine nerds took over the table conversation with a new vocabulary forty years ago, so olive oil enthusiasts are introducing food lovers to the limitless variety and nuances of extra virgin olive oil. From personal experience I can say that even if you grew up consuming olive oil every day, until you have tasted a fine extra virgin olive oil, you don’t know beans.
I have been tasting and cooking my way through extra virgin olive oils sent to me for review from Olio2go, a retailer of Italian extra virgin olive oils. Most recently I have indulged my every whim with a collection of five oils from Fonte di Foiano, a producer in Tuscany. The Fonte di Foiano oliveta is in Castagneto Carducci where the rich limestone and clay soil and briny air combine to produce particularly flavorful fruit. In the 1970’s the di Gaetano family breathed new life into the ancient groves, keeping some of the older trees and introducing newer, younger ones.
Today the sons, Paolo and Simone, tend to all aspects of the day to day operation of the farm taking the fruit from tree to table. Pesticide use is kept to an absolute minimum. The olives are harvested in October and are pressed within 4 hours of being harvested. Taken together, these and other growing and production practices result in oils with exceptionally pure fruity flavor. They are at turns buttery, nutty, grassy, spicy and pungent. There is not a trace of greasiness or heaviness, and the oils sport the most delightful flavor notes such as tomato, tomato leaves, cardoon, green tomato and artichoke. Fonte di Foiano produces a number of extra virgin olive oils, both monocultivar (from one type of olive tree) and blends. These exceptional oils have won numerous awards, including brilliant showings at the Los Angeles International Extra Virgin Olive Oil Competition in 2011, 2012, and 2013.
For the Maccheroni alla Chitarra with Roasted Tomatoes I used the Moraiolo oil. This classic Tuscan monocultivar oil is a beautiful clear yellow with a captivating fruity taste. The scent of tomato and grass, coupled with a pleasant spiciness and persistent bitterness made it the perfect oil for this dish. It enriched the pasta and enhanced the roasted tomatoes and herbs, tying the components together and giving the dish some striking body.
Don’t be put of by the price of fine extra virgin olive oil. The cost may seem steep, but I bet you have spent more on a bottle of wine. Consider that you are not going to down thirty or forty dollars worth of extra virgin olive oil in one night. The oil will go a lot further than the wine, supplying ample enjoyment along the way.
There is an astounding world of flavor out there, and I urge you to experiment. A fine oil is a revelation. The next time you are looking for a hostess gift, bring a bottle of fine extra virgin olive oil instead of wine.
Maccheroni alla Chitarra with Roasted Tomatoes and Fonte di Foiano Extra Virgin Olive Oil
serves 4
Maccheroni alla chitarra is the classic square cut pasta from Italy’s Abruzzo region. Once the province of home cooks, it is popping up everywhere these days, online, in print, and on restaurant menus. A chitarra is a rectangular wooden frame, usually made of beech, with a set of parallel metal wires strung along its length. The maccheroni is cut by putting a sheet of pasta atop the wires and using a mattarello (rolling pin) to roll and press the dough through the wires to cut the maccheroni. Some chitarre (plural) are two sided, with a set of wires on each side, set at different distances from one another. This allows the cook to make two sizes – maccheroni tutt’ova, finely cut strands, and maccheroni mezz’ovo, slightly thicker strands.
On her website Oretta Zanini da Vita writes that in Abruzzo the cooks of Scanno are particularly famous for their maccheroni, while the artisans of L’Aquila and Chieti provinces are known for their beautifully made chitarre. If you don’t want to make your own maccheroni, several commercially prepared brands are available. You may see it called tonnarelli, the name by which it is known in Italy’s Lazio region. Click here for my photo essay on how to make maccheroni alla chitarra.
Tomato season has arrived. Make the best of it, and use a couple varieties for added flavor and color. Black tomatoes, such as Black Prince with their distinctly earthy flavor are a particularly nice choice for this rustic pasta. (Point of information – earthiness, considered a desirable trait in tomatoes, is distinctly undesirable in extra virgin olive oil, and is in fact regarded as a flaw.) Roasting the tomatoes with a few tablespoons of the extra virgin olive oil is a bit of a splurge, but this wonderful oil will impart its flavor and body to the tomatoes, enriching the dish.
Finish the dish with grated Parmigiano Reggiano and Asiago for extra rich flavor. Use a high quality Asiago, one that is still somewhat young. Avoid the domestic supermarket brands; they are often well past their prime and devoid of the sweet nuttiness of a fine Asiago. Ask your cheese monger for a taste, and if you can’t find an Asiago that you like, use all Parmigiano Reggiano.
2 ¼ cups all-purpose flour, plus more if needed
4 large eggs
flour and semolina, combined in a 1:1 ratio for rolling and dusting the tray for the maccheroni
Fonte di Foiano extra virgin olive oil
1 pound and 12 oz. medium tomatoes (about 1½ to 2 inches in diameter each), halved
½ cup basil leaves, cut in chiffonade
¼ cup Italian parsley, chopped
½ cup whole milk ricotta, at room temperature, more if desired
4 cloves garlic, peeled and slightly crushed
Generous pinch peperoncino flakes
Grated Asiago cheese
Grated Parmigiano Reggiano
Kosher salt and pepper
How to make maccheroni alla chitarra – by hand or machine
Make the pasta dough by hand: mound 2 ¼ cups flour on a spianatoia (wooden board) or counter. Scoop out a hole in the center of the flour, about the size of an orange, to form a fontana (well.) Leave a bit of flour on the bottom of the well so your eggs do not come directly in contact with the spianatoia. Crack 4 large eggs into the fontana, and use a fork to lightly beat them, incorporating the flour, bit by bit, into the swirling egg mass as you whisk. Hold your free hand against the outer surface of the wall of flour to prevent it from collapsing as you work your fork through the swirling egg mass. When the eggs have been incorporated and the dough has come together in a shaggy mass, gather and push it aside using a bench scraper or metal spatula. Clean the work surface of excess flour and any bits of dried dough. Lightly flour the work surface again and knead the dough until it is smooth and elastic, about 5 minutes, adding more flour if necessary to form a manageable, but not dry dough. Form the dough into a disk, and wrap it in plastic. Set it aside to rest for 30 minutes.
Make the pasta dough in the food processor: place 2 ¼ cups flour in the workbowl of a food processor fitted with the steel knife. Lightly beat 4 large eggs in a measuring cup or small bowl. Remove the feed tube, and with processor running, add the eggs in a steady stream, using a spatula to scrape all of the eggs into the processor. Process until the mixture just comes together. You may have to add a bit more flour. Remove the dough from the processor and knead 2 or 3 minutes on a lightly floured board or counter. When dough is smooth and elastic, flatten it into a disk and wrap it in plastic. Set it aside to rest for 30 minutes.
Roast the tomatoes: while the dough rests, preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Lightly oil a sheet pan or line it with non-stick foil. (The non-stick foil is a great choice here because the tomatoes will never stick to the pan and tear as you lift them.) Slice the tomatoes in half, and place them on the foil, cut side up. Drizzle with 2 to 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, and sprinkle very lightly with kosher salt. Roast until the tomatoes soften, but still retain their shape, about 25 minutes. Remove them from the oven, sprinkle with a bit of black pepper, and set aside.
Roll and cut the maccheroni: place a clean kitchen towel on a sheet pan and sprinkle it lightly with a bit of the flour and semolina mixture. Use a rolling pin or pasta machine to roll the dough to a thickness equal to the distance between two strings of your chitarra to yield a noodle as thick as it is broad, the classic square cut. Cut the rolled pasta into a rectangle slightly less than the width of the cutting surface (strings) of the chitarra and 1inch shorter. Place the sheet of pasta over the strings and roll a floured rolling pin over the pasta, forcing it through the strings. Some of the dough may not cut. Strum your fingers across the strings, and it will fall through, or roll a bit more to force it through. Gather the maccheroni, separating the strands and dusting them with the flour and semolina mixture. Place the maccheroni on the prepared sheet pan, and continue with the remaining dough.
Pour ½ cup Fonte di Foiano Moraiolo extra virgin olive oil into a 12- inch frypan. Peel the garlic cloves, and mash them slightly. Drop the cloves into the oil along with ¼ teaspoon peperoncino flakes. Heat the oil over a very low flame until it is quite fragrant, about 5 minutes. The goal here is to very gently heat and flavor the oil, not to cook it or to brown the garlic. When the oil is fragrant turn off the heat. Remove and discard the garlic.
Meanwhile bring 6 quarts of water to a rolling boil. Add a generous handful of coarse sea salt (remember, there is no salt in the dough.) When the water returns to the boil add the maccheroni and cook about 2 minutes until done.
While the maccheroni cooks, cut the basil into chiffonade (ribbons), about 1/8-1/4 inch wide.
Transfer the maccheroni to the warm oil. Add ¼ teaspoon black pepper and basil, tossing to coat, adding a bit of pasta water if necessary. Transfer to a serving platter. Top with the hot roasted tomatoes and dollops of ricotta. Use a spoon to make small divots in the ricotta to hold the oil. Drizzle 2 to 3 tablespoons Fonte di Foiano Moraiolo extra virgin olive oil over the maccheroni and tomatoes, letting some pool in the ricotta. Serve and pass grated Asiago and grated Parmigiano at the table.
Fonte di Foiano Extra Virgin Olive Oils are available online from Olio2go, or at their brick and mortar establishment located at 8400 Hilltop Road, Suite H, Fairfax, VA 22031; phone 866-Olio2go (866-654-6246) The oils range in price from $22.95 to $32.95 for single bottles and $55.95 to $85.95 for boxed collections.
For more information on extra virgin olive oil, click here to read Domenica Marchetti’s interview with Luanne Savino O’Loughlin of Olio2go.
Note: You can click on any picture for a larger image, and to see a slide show!
Disclosure: I received the product mentioned above for free. I only recommend products or services I use personally and believe will be good for my readers. I otherwise have no affiliation with any product, manufacturer, or site mentioned in this article.
Tuesday, June 18th 2013 at 3:17 am |
Absolutely magnificent! Lucky you to get to taste all that amazing olive oil! And brava on such wonderful instructions for making homemade chitarra… and with the roasted tomatoes and ricotta…I’m in heaven!
Tuesday, June 18th 2013 at 5:41 am |
Hi LAney,
I have to say I do feel fortunate. It has been an absolute pleasure to taste these oils. Thank you for all the kind words. I enjoy making the maccheroni, and I am particularly gratified to see that it is really becoming popular. Un bacione!
Tuesday, June 18th 2013 at 3:24 am |
Adri, you already know that your posts (especially the homemade pasta ones) compel my utmost respect – you have no idea how much I enjoy reading through these pots of yours, learning many new things and always feel amazed at all your knowledge and dedication that you pour into your posts – I love your homemade pasta, the oven roasted tomatoes, the way you explain about the importance of a good quality oil (now I am happy I am not the only one preaching about getting good oil), the photography, just everything!
What a delight my visit was again today!
Have a very lovely Tuesday!
Tuesday, June 18th 2013 at 5:50 am |
Ciao Andrea,
Thank you! I enjoy doing this, and hearing that others like what they see here is truly gratifying. I hope you try the homemade pastas you see on my site. They are a blast to make, especially if you do it with a few friends. About the olive oil, I think that the more we talk about it, the more it will encourage people to try them. The simple truth is that once someone tastes the good stuff, they will never go back to the motor oil. Un abbraccio!
Tuesday, June 18th 2013 at 6:00 am |
We are so fortunate to have a trusted source for quality olive oil from Olio2go and your review really shows the high standards they stand by. I can’t take my eyes off that beautiful dish you created, every bit of it made with love! Thanks for such a great post and as always such beautiful photography!
Tuesday, June 18th 2013 at 6:35 am |
Hi Marie,
You are so right about Olio2go. I wish they had a store here in Los Angeles. Thanks for the kind words about the pasta dish. You know about the handmade ones; they are so rewarding to make, aren’t they? Thanks for stopping by!
Tuesday, June 18th 2013 at 9:12 am |
Oh wow, this dish sounds sooooo good. And i loved reading all about that wonderful olive oil. It might be time for me to invest in some of the good stuff!
Tuesday, June 18th 2013 at 9:52 am |
Hi Mamma!
It’s definitely time to invest in the good stuff! Let’s get that baby started on the right foot.
Thanks so much for taking time out of your new mom day to visit my site and comment. I hope you and your family are doing well.
Tuesday, June 18th 2013 at 10:10 am |
This dish looks amazing, and the olive oil sounds wonderful. I need to splurge on a really good one like this!
Tuesday, June 18th 2013 at 10:13 am |
Hi Marcie,
Thanks for the kind words. I am so glad this caught your eye. I say go ahead, splurge. You will be glad you did!
Tuesday, June 18th 2013 at 10:39 am |
Complimenti, da maestra questi maccheroni!!!!
Tuesday, June 18th 2013 at 10:48 am |
Grazie, Simona!
Tuesday, June 18th 2013 at 11:37 am |
Like wine tasting good olive oil is to be savored, but it’s also about vocabulary, letting your tastes feelings mutate into words. GREG
Tuesday, June 18th 2013 at 11:56 am |
Hi Greg,
You are so right, and savoring is believing. There is a “standard vocabulary” with universal understanding, just as there is for wine, but once one really gets into it, all sorts of things come to mind. I find it endlessly fascinating.
Tuesday, June 18th 2013 at 2:17 pm |
un primo piatto certamente saporito e la scelta dell’olio veramente superba, bravissima Adri, riesci sempre a trovare prodotti molto interessanti ! un abbraccio…
Tuesday, June 18th 2013 at 2:18 pm |
Ciao Chiara,
Come sempre – grazie!
Tuesday, June 18th 2013 at 8:07 pm |
I couldn’t agree with you more! A good quality olive oil tastes like no other… I used to run a boutique Mediterranean olive oil shop and we had the privilege of sampling beautiful olive oils all day long. What a treat! I envy your new treasures 😉 And oh how I wish I had some of that gorgeous pasta too! Yum!!!
Wednesday, June 19th 2013 at 6:16 am |
Hi Emilie,
Well, it sounds like you had my dream job! How wonderful to have been surrounded by glorious oils, and better still to introduce people to them. Tasting is believing. Thanks for stopping by!
Tuesday, June 18th 2013 at 10:12 pm |
Adri – Once again, you have provided your readers with a post filled not only with a terrific recipe, but with lots of information about olive oil and the chitarra too. I am always impressed by the text as well as your photos and I so agree with you about the cost of olive oil. You don’t have to use the expensive stuff for every bit of cooking either, but for dishes like this, it really changes the game. I can just imagine dipping into that ricotta on top drizzled with olive oil.
Wednesday, June 19th 2013 at 6:18 am |
Ciao Linda,
And now just imagine dropping the oil into some sheep’s milk ricotta!! Thanks for the kind words, and I hope you get a taste of these oils. They are spectacular.
Friday, June 21st 2013 at 4:30 am |
Poor you, having to taste all of those olive oils! How grueling ; ) But in all seriousness, those photos are incredibly beautiful – the tomatoes, the ricotta, the glistening olive oil. Ack, it’s only breakfast time here! I want this. No, I need this.
Friday, June 21st 2013 at 6:28 am |
Hi Trix,
I know. It is tough work, but someone has to do it. I am glad you like the pasta – it’s a good one!
Friday, June 21st 2013 at 10:20 am |
Your pasta looks delicious. I used to have a chitarra that I bought in Italy but it disappeared in one of our many moves.
Friday, June 21st 2013 at 11:31 am |
Hi Karen,
Thanks for the compliment – I say it’s time to invest in another chitarra!
Saturday, June 22nd 2013 at 7:05 pm |
The ricotta in this recipe must add an amazing richness. Tomatoes are still forthcoming after the long, cold winter we had. This will on our “to make” list once they do show up.
Sunday, June 23rd 2013 at 8:22 am |
Ciao Due!
Indeed it does add a terrific richness – now if only I could get some sheep’s milk ricotta, I’d gaze at my Abruzzo travel posters and imagine I was having lunch in the Motherland!
Sunday, June 23rd 2013 at 6:52 am |
Oh wonderful to learn more about virgin olive oil! You really won’t regret going for the best virgin olive oil in the market!! And love too how you make your own pasta! The end result is totally amazing! Wow!!! Take care
x
Sunday, June 23rd 2013 at 8:24 am |
Benvenuta!
Oh, I find that there is just no end to what I can learn and discover about food in general and extra virgin olive oil in particular. I’ve got lots more to share, too. Thanks so much for stopping by!
Sunday, June 23rd 2013 at 11:15 pm |
Look how you have us all panting for olive oil! Yes, of course it is as wine was! Your passion comes through here and it is infectious..I want to go out and get a ton of delicious olive oils to drizzle and dunk. DId you leave any for us?
Monday, June 24th 2013 at 6:46 am |
Hi Trevor,
I’m glad you are into it – yes,I did leave some for everyone else… and more posts to prove it!
Monday, June 24th 2013 at 12:25 pm |
Che bel piatto di pasta, bravissima!!!
Ciao
Monday, June 24th 2013 at 6:48 pm |
Grazie, Carla!
Monday, June 24th 2013 at 1:08 pm |
Mamma mia che piatto meraviglioso, tantissimi complimenti cara!!!!
Un bacio grande e a presto!!!!
Monday, June 24th 2013 at 6:49 pm |
Grazie, Lory – un bacio a te!
Thursday, June 27th 2013 at 1:50 pm |
Such a fun read! My work just hosted the Los Angeles International EVOO Competition and I learned a TON about these products during the event. I was able to take a bottle home and have enjoyed cooking and pairing foods ever since! I will have to try your recipes as well 🙂 Thanks for sharing!
Thursday, June 27th 2013 at 4:13 pm |
Benvenuta Heather!
I am so glad you found my site. The Los Angeles International Extra Virgin Olive Oil Competition captured my imagination. It must have been an absolute joy to host, my dream job, for certain! I only regret that I did not learn of it until after it had occurred, but next year will be here before we know it. I am pleased to hear you are familiar with Fonte di Foiano Extra Virgin Olive oils. They are remarkable indeed. Thanks so much for visiting my site. I hope you return often.
Saturday, June 29th 2013 at 7:50 pm |
Beautiful and delicious post! Homemade pasta with good quality olive oil transforms a simple dish into a beautiful dish. I love your chitarra. A great way to get some uniform slice of pasta. Thanks for stopping by my site so that I could find yours. Looking forward to keeping in touch. Take care, BAM
Sunday, June 30th 2013 at 11:27 pm |
Fantastica la pasta che hai realizzato. Buon inizio di settimana Daniela.
Sunday, June 30th 2013 at 11:56 pm |
Ciao Daniela,
Grazie. Adoro questa pasta, una classica d’Abruzzo. Un bacione!
Wednesday, July 3rd 2013 at 11:52 pm |
Una vera delizia, perfetta per questa stagione ! un abbraccio !
Thursday, September 11th 2014 at 4:45 pm |
Well, Adri, thanks to you I am the proud owner of Corzetti cutters and I just know that I am now on the hunt here for my very own chitarra pasta cutter…I am desperate to find one as this is my all time favourite long pasta! First time I had tonnarelli in Rome…hooked. And then…I can make this fantastic roasted tomato pasta!
Thursday, September 11th 2014 at 4:49 pm |
Hi Phyllis,
It’s easier to find a chitarra than corzetti stamps! Go to Sur la Table, and you can buy a chitarra online. Thanks for stopping by, and I am so pleased that you’ve got your own stamps now. I bet you will make some glorious pasta.