Il Festino di Santa Rosalia and The Black Plague

Courtesy: Raymond Giamona, giamona.com

Yersinia pestis. The Plague, the Black Death, the Work of the Devil and God’s Retribution, the people of Palermo called it all that and more in 1624 when they were struck by a microbe whose name man did not yet know. As they prayed, built fires and collected the dead, they waited for the only help they knew, Salvation from Above. Salvation came in the form of a citizen’s fever dream, and Santa Rosalia was her name. Though dead for 400 years, “la Santuzza” appeared to one Sig. Bonello and directed him to retrieve her bones and carry them in a Grand Procession to all corners of the city. This he did, and the Plague abated. The Palermitani were saved, and a patron saint was born to Palermo.

It is mid-July in Sicily, and there is only one place to be, and that is the capital, Palermo. We’ve all seen footage of the magnificent processions where men carry renderings of saints. Well, for the mother of them all, go to Palermo in July as her citizens reenact Sig. Bonello’s Grand Procession. This is “u fistinu” – the festival in Sicilian. A float, decorated as a ship, carries an immense statue of Santa Rosalia poised proudly atop. It makes it way through town as fireworks and live musicians entertain the onlookers. Festivities abound with much merriment, eating and drinking. One of the many specialties typical of this festival is Gelo di Melone, Watermelon Pudding. Another is, of course, Sicily’s famous cake, the Cassata – ricotta cream studded with chocolate and candied citrus encased in a rum soaked sponge cake, topped with lemon icing, all wrapped up in pasta reale – Sicily’ s own marzipan. Oh yes. Saints be blessed.

So sit back, check out the YouTube videos of il Festino di Santa Rosalia, and have a summertime treat!

When in Palermo say, A Palermo si dice Viva Palermo e Santa Rosalia!

“Long live Palermo and Santa Rosalia!”

Gelatina di Melone
Watermelon Jelly

This classic Festino di Santa Rosalia treat can be found all over the capital in mid-July where it is known as Gelo di Melone or Gelo di Anguria. It is traditionally made with cornstarch, however I prefer the texture achieved with gelatin, so for me it is Gelatina di Melone. You can make these molds any size you want. The rules are dead simple – for every cup of juice use 1 1/2 teaspoons gelatin and 2 tablespoons sugar. The Arab influence is at work here in the traditional flavorings – cinnamon and either jasmine or rose water. As to the chocolate chips – well just how many seeds can a watermelon have? Let your imagination be your guide in decorating this dish. Again, in a nod to the influence from the Middle East, you will often see this gelo decorated with pistachios and jasmine flowers. I love to use blossoms, their beauty and delicate perfume giving hints of the delight to come.

4 cups watermelon juice, divided
1/2 cup sugar
6 teaspoons KNOX Unflavored Gelatine
1/4 cup mini-chocolate chips
1 teaspoon jasmine or rose water

Pour 1 cup juice in wide bottom bowl, and sprinkle gelatine over. Set aside 5 minutes as gelatin softens. Afer 5 minutes have passed, place bowl of gelatin in skillet filled with 1 inch of simmering water. Stir gelatin until dissolved. For more information on gelatin, see my post on Espresso Panna Cotta.

Meanwhile, place remaining 3 cups juice and sugar in medium sauce pan. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring occasionally to dissolve sugar.

Off heat combine juice and sugar mixture with dissolved gelatin, stirring to combine thoroughly.

Place over ice water bath, and stir frequently to promote even cooling.

Once mixture is cool and has begun to thicken, add chocolate chips and pour into mold. Don’t add the chocolate chips when the mixture is thin, or they will not remain suspended throughout the gelatina, but rather descend en masse directly to the bottom of your mold. Refrigerate overnight.

To unmold – wrap hot wet towels around the mold or briefly set mold in hot water, being careful not to let any water seep over the edges of the mold. Invert onto a platter and decorate with your choice of citrus leaves and blossoms, jasmine and rose flowers or chopped pistachios and chocolate.

Note: You can click on any picture to see a slide show with even more pictures!

I have no affiliation with any product, manufacturer, or site mentioned in this article.