Savory Cocktails by Greg Henry – A Book Review
Sweet is out. Savory is in, and Greg Henry, author of the popular blog Sippity Sup-Serious Fun Food knows savory. Following the success of his first book Savory Pies, he now brings us Savory Cocktails. OK. I can hear you from here. “Oh, of course you’d like this one, Adri. It’s about liquor.” I’ll admit I enjoy a nice tipple as much as, maybe even more than, the next woman. But this volume is a different kind of cocktail compendium. With easygoing style, the author sets you on the road to mastering both contemporary and classic cocktails.
Greg’s sophisticated palate and nonpareil mixing skills take the mystery, but not the romance, out of the art of the barman. Forget the pink drinks with little umbrellas. You know the ones I mean – the ones that sneak up on you, destroying your palate and rendering the evening but a hazy memory. This book contains over 100 savory creations that will whet your appetite and set the mood for an enjoyable evening. If you are new to the art of the cocktail, you will find everything you need to get started, including a list of barware, tools and instruction on basic technique.
Greg makes the point “I don’t care how savory a cocktail is, most well-made drinks require a sweet element for real balance.” To help you along with the sweet component are recipes for classic simple syrup and flavored variations. Are you new to cocktail’s classic ingredient bitters? Have no fear. They’ll feel like an old friend by the time you read Greg’s lesson. Ditto for the current cocktail trend shrubs; these drinking vinegars, popular once again, will quickly become part of your repertoire. Infusions are here too. From citrus to whole spice, with his straightforward directions you will be able to make your own.
The cocktail recipes are divided into 8 categories, sour, spicy, herbal, umami, bitter, smoky, rich, and strong. It’s such a natural, organic way of categorizing the cocktails, and makes the process of finding a drink simple.
I started at the beginning with the Papa Hemingway Daiquiri. It was, it turns out, a very good place to start. The drink is a bright, fresh mix of clear rum, grapefruit and lime juices, and maraschino, garnished with “a masculine hunk of lime.” The libation has its origins in Cuba, and was perfect for our current tropical Southern California weather.
Among the classics I was glad to see my favorite, the Hanky Panky, an alluring mix of gin, Italian vermouth and Fernet Branca. You’ll also find the Gibson, the Vesper and enough versions of the Martini to keep you busy behind the bar every night of the week. There are new cocktail creations too. With fanciful names like Warm Cardigan and This Feeling of Joy, you’ll be intrigued enough to give them a go and very glad you did. The Widow’s Kiss, Dead Glamour, The Long Goodbye and The Fatal Hour conjure up a Chandleresque era of dark wood-paneled bars and curls of cigarette smoke. Old, new, and classics revisited, they are all here.
The author’s elegance and mastery of the art of the cocktail are on display throughout the book, and the photographs are his own. With his trademark masculine style he presents the cocktails at their tempting, mood setting best while showcasing some of the most beautiful barware I have ever seen.
I was also pleased to see a discussion of the use of raw eggs vis a vis salmonella and that the author put forth the use of pasteurized eggs as an alternative to raw. This volume has now joined the list of “must haves” for the home bar. Whether you are new to cocktails or a seasoned habitué, Savory Cocktails will set you on the road to imbibing in a style to which you will be delighted to become accustomed.
Photograph by Greg Henry
Barrel-Aged Berlioni
The Berlioni was originally created by Berlin-based bartender Gonçalo de Sousa Monteiro as a riff on that great cocktail star, the Negroni. My version was adapted from The PDT Cocktail Book by Jim Meehan and Chris Gall. The dark notes of barrel-aged gin in conjunction with orange bitters take this cocktail a step back toward its roots.
2 pony shots / 60 ml / 2 fl oz barrel aged gin
½ pony shot / 15 ml / ½ fl oz Cynar or other herbaceous amaro
½ pony shot / 15 ml / ½ fl oz white vermouth
1 dash orange bitters
1 large, wide orange peel chip, as garnish
Combine the gin, Cynar, vermouth, and bitters in a mixing glass half-filled with ice. Stir until chilled and properly diluted, about 20 seconds. Julep-strain into an old-fashioned glass filled with medium ice cubes. Garnish with the orange peel, expressing its oil onto the surface, rubbing it on the rim of the glass, and then dropping it in, peel side up. Makes 1
Barrel-aged gin is the latest, oldest new thing out there. Once upon a time gin was distilled at point A, then shipped in wooden barrels to point B. Naturally the qualities and quirks of the wooden vessel changed the nature of the spirit during transport, often imbuing it with a nutty palate and hues ranging from barest amber to deeply caramel.
Today barrel-aged gins are rather rare. You won’t find them at just any liquor store; they tend to be very, very local. I was recently in Columbus, Ohio where I tasted a version from Watershed Distillery. Imperial Gin offers a limited edition. Bols barrel-ages a genever that’s quite good. Ransom has an Old Tom that nicely bridges the gap between genever and modern-day dry gin. Others, including Breukelen, Corsair, and Rusty Blade, occasionally have barrel-aged gins available. So look around-interest in this spirit is growing.
Barrel-aged gin works well in what I’m defining as a “savory” cocktail. It has complementing attributes of both whiskey and gin. There are the smoked vanilla and rounded texture that come from barrel-aging, balancing the sharp edges of gin’s complicated beauty. And no two
barrel-aged gins are quite the same.
If you can’t find ready-made barrel-aged gin, get your own barrel and do the aging at home. Two-liter handcrafted oak aging barrels are available online.
Excerpted from Savory Cocktails, © 2013 by Greg Henry
Reproduced by permission of Ulysses Press
All rights reserved.
Greg Henry is a cookbook author and also writes the food blog Sippity Sup-Serious Fun Food. He’s led cooking demonstrations in Panama & Costa Rica, and has traveled as far and wide as Norway and Alaska to promote culinary travel. He’s been featured in Food & Wine Magazine, Los Angeles Times, The Today Show Online and Saveur’s Best of the Web. Greg also co-hosts The Table Set podcast which can be downloaded on iTunes or at Homefries Podcast Network and was named one of The LA Weekly’s 5 favorite podcasts for food lovers.
Savory Cocktails: Sour Spicy Herbal Umami Bitter Smoky Rich Strong
by Greg Henry
Paperback: 144 pages
Ulysses Press (September 10, 2013)
ISBN-10: 1612432220
ISBN-13: 978-1612432229
Disclosure: I received a copy of this book for review. I only recommend products or services I use personally and believe will be good for my readers. I otherwise have no affiliation with any product, manufacturer, or site mentioned in this article.
Tuesday, September 10th 2013 at 9:24 pm |
Deve essere stupendo questo volume! Grazie, non lo conoscevo! Un abbraccione 🙂
Tuesday, September 10th 2013 at 9:46 pm |
Ciao Ely,
Greg ha scritto un libro veramente meraviglioso. Aperol, Cynar, Fernet Branca – trovi tutti i liquori Italiani!
Tuesday, September 10th 2013 at 11:08 pm |
Now here’s a reason to stay in at night. Let’s see… test one a night… better living through chemistry.
Tuesday, September 10th 2013 at 11:12 pm |
Ciao Foodie,
There’s lots here to keep you in at night. Cheers!
Tuesday, September 10th 2013 at 11:51 pm |
I have some shopping to do! I am all out of Cynar and I must have this book.
Wednesday, September 11th 2013 at 7:10 am |
Ciao Gillian,
This book is everything I expected it to be. Greg has a classic viewpoint on liquor, updated for the 21st century, and a keen awareness of what is out there. Also you will find none of those 10 oz. glasses filled to the brim. This is smooth and fine drinking, all the way. Cheers!
Wednesday, September 11th 2013 at 7:16 am |
So many unique cocktails! And I love all the names – who wouldn’t want to slowly savor The Long Goodbye…
Wednesday, September 11th 2013 at 7:35 am |
Hi Laney,
Yes, so many cocktails, so little time! These names are really seductive, if you ask me. Cheers!
Wednesday, September 11th 2013 at 7:17 am |
Beautiful book and beautiful daiquiri! What I like about this book is it takes every other bar book out there to another level. It’s completely unique in its perspective.
Wednesday, September 11th 2013 at 7:38 am |
Ciao Trevor,
It is gorgeous, and thank you for the compliment on the daiquiri, which by the way was one very fine libation. Bart will enjoy hearing that you liked the shot. He wanted to keep it simple – no other props, just show off the drink. I think that made perfect sense for a review. It is good to live with an editor. You are right about this book. It sets a new standard, no doubt about it. Cin! Cin!
Wednesday, September 11th 2013 at 8:16 am |
Che bel libro Adri, sono molto belli a vedersi, mi piace come sono presentati ma essendo astemia, non potrei assaggiarli!!!
Wednesday, September 11th 2013 at 8:24 am |
Ciao Mariangela,
Capisco, ma che peccata. Questi cocktails sono meravigliosi!
Wednesday, September 11th 2013 at 8:30 am |
Adri. These cocktails sound refreshing and would really do the deed
Wednesday, September 11th 2013 at 8:31 am |
Hi Anthony,
Now I kind of sort of thought of you when I got this book… you’d love it.
Wednesday, September 11th 2013 at 10:44 am |
If Greg wrote it, it has to be good. Hanky Panky – what a fabulous name for a drink. You don’t see many drinks using Fernet Branca, other than for help with a hangover. What a great idea. Sounds like a nice twist on a Negroni.
I think you chose the same drink I would try first. Who can go wrong with Hemingway. Now if only I could sip it in Key West…
Sam
Wednesday, September 11th 2013 at 10:53 am |
Hi Sam,
Yes, the Hanky Panky is a treasure, one of many in this book. Key West and that daiquiri would be a perfect match. You are right. Thanks to you for stopping by!
Wednesday, September 11th 2013 at 2:29 pm |
What a beautiful book. I will be getting it as a gift for my hubby, the mixologist!
Wednesday, September 11th 2013 at 2:43 pm |
Ciao Toni,
He will love it! This book is fab!
Wednesday, September 11th 2013 at 3:21 pm |
I tend to like my cocktails much more savory than sweet, so I know I’d love this book! And I absolutely love grapefruit, so I wish I had one of those daiquiris in front of me right now. After a good, but long, day, it would be a perfect treat. Cheers!
Wednesday, September 11th 2013 at 6:20 pm |
Hi Amy,
I’m pleased to hear that you come down on the savory side too. Indeed the daiquiri is a treat after a long day. Cheers to you!
Thursday, September 12th 2013 at 6:02 am |
Let the drinking begin. I think this sounds like a must-have for anyone over 21 . Thanks for your beautifully written review and as always, Bart’s excellent photos.
Thursday, September 12th 2013 at 7:07 am |
Ciao Linda,
D’accordo! Thank you for the compliment, and I know Bart will enjoy your kind words too! Cheers!
Thursday, September 12th 2013 at 9:42 am |
Greg has some of the coolest cocktails, excited for his new book. This drink looks so good and those orange bitter, fresh.
Thursday, September 12th 2013 at 10:10 am |
Benvenuta!
No kidding – he’s the King of LA Cocktail Cool. I hope his book is super successful. Thank you for visiting my site. Alla prossima!
Saturday, September 14th 2013 at 7:41 am |
non ho mai fatto nessun cocktail, con questo libro divento brava anche io ! Buon weekend Adri, un bacione !
Saturday, September 14th 2013 at 2:10 pm |
Ciao Chiara,
Mai!! Sì, con questo libro sarebbe diventato un esperto! Un bacione a te!
Sunday, September 15th 2013 at 12:05 am |
Adri, what a fantastic looking book and what amazing photography – I am not a cocktail drinker (would not know the first thing about cocktails) but still enjoyed your post tremendously!
Love your book reviews and love coming here for a visit!
Tanti saluti, Andrea
Sunday, September 15th 2013 at 7:23 am |
Ciao Andrea,
Thanks for the compliments. A good photo can make a drinker out of anyone! The shot of the Barrel-Aged Berlioni is by the book’s author, Greg Henry, and my husband Bart took the shot of the Daiquiri. I will pass your compliments along. I say try a cocktail now and again. You might be surprised! Cheers!
Sunday, September 15th 2013 at 9:07 am |
Adri, I have to tell you – I could use a full-time mixologist around here to get me through these first few weeks of back-to-school/activities! Let me know if you’re interested in the position 😉 Seriously, these drinks sound amazing and the photos are beautiful. A presto! Un abbraccio, Michelle
Sunday, September 15th 2013 at 9:31 am |
Ciao Michelle,
I can not even imagine getting three young boys back to school. I bet you could use a full time mixologist – or at least a copy of Greg’s book. I hope the kids love school, and I hope everyone soon settles into a routine!
Sunday, September 15th 2013 at 12:02 pm |
I’ve just enjoyed read ‘The Paris Wife’ and now I’d really like to try a Papa Hemingway Daiquiri.
Sunday, September 15th 2013 at 2:18 pm |
Ciao Mette,
Perfect timing! Cheers!
Sunday, September 15th 2013 at 1:15 pm |
Sounds like a terrific book! I do love a good cocktail, and it sounds like Greg has some winners. Super review – thanks so much.
Sunday, September 15th 2013 at 2:21 pm |
Benvenuto John,
Thank you, as always Greg finishes in first place in the cocktail division. Thanks for stopping by! Cheers!
Monday, September 16th 2013 at 10:17 pm |
Oh my, between your review and Bart’s photo, I’m ready to party! I truly want to drink a cocktail with you one day!
Monday, September 16th 2013 at 10:24 pm |
Marie,
When we both win and are in New York!
Saturday, October 19th 2013 at 4:34 am |
This sounds like a fabulous book! I was intrigued from that very first picture… so beautiful. My husband is our resident cocktail maker (I test for quality control…) I’ll have to get him this book for Christmas 😉
Saturday, October 19th 2013 at 9:07 am |
Hi Emilie,
Definitely! This is a perfect gift for the cocktail maker in your home. Greg Henry, the author knows his liquor. Cheers!