One Hundred Years in America
Tagliatelle agli spinaci con polpettine d’agnello
Gaetano Crocetti
One hundred years ago this month my grandfather, Gaetano Crocetti, arrived in America. He left his native Abruzzo and traveled west to Naples where he boarded the steamship Hamburg for the long voyage, trading the region’s towering mountain peaks, verdant hillsides, fields, vineyards for the smokestacks and steel mills of Steubenville, Ohio. America was good to him, but he never forgot his homeland, and my grandmother’s cooking kept those memories alive.
As a Blogger Ambassador for La Cucina Italiana magazine I received a selection of Delverde pasta and a bottle of Lucini extra virgin olive oil along with an invitation to participate in Delverde’s Dish your blog contest. The patrimony of Italian recipes is vast and afforded endless possibilities for my submission. I decided to celebrate the centennial of my grandfather’s arrival with a dish made of classic Abruzzese foods.
The first part was easy since Delverde pasta is a product of Abruzzo. The company is in the Majella National Park, a place of stunning natural beauty. Forests of beech and pine and majestic mountains that drop down to steep ravines carved over the centuries by rivers, this is home to Delverde. I selected the Spinach Tagliatelle Nests, known in Italian as nidi.
When I think of traditional Abruzzese food products, I think of three things: wines, saffron, or zafferano in Italian, and lamb. Zafferano is the most expensive and storied of spices, and lamb, whether it be the meat of the gentle creatures or the many wonderful cheeses made from their milk are classics of the region. Abruzzo, after all, is sheep country; it is the land of the Transumanza, where shepherds have moved their sheep for thousands of years.
The dish starts with an uncomplicated sauce, or sugo. It is perfumed with zafferano plucked from the dark earth of Navelli, and flavored with one of the delights of the Abruzzese vintner’s tradition, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. Not to be confused with the famous Montepulciano from Tuscany to the north, this deep purple wine is made in Abruzzo with Montepulciano d’Abruzzo grapes. It is full-flavored and low in acid which makes it splendid for use in a sugo.
I used ground leg of lamb for the tiny meatballs, polpettine, as they are known in Italy. I chose leg over the more assertively flavored shoulder because the polpettine, aside from being small, are flavored with delicate zafferano and Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, a dry white wine. The wine imparts its gentle floral bouquet to the polpettine, providing a backdrop for the haunting taste of the spice. Pecorino, a sheep’s milk cheese, and some Parmigiano-Reggiano add a bit of tang and flavor. Dollops of ricotta drizzled with extra virgin olive oil finish the dish, softening and blending the flavor notes. Use a sheep’s milk ricotta if it is available, but a cow’s milks ricotta is also excellent here. For a final flourish, send a chunk of Pecorino to the table.
Tagliatelle agli spinaci con polpettine d’agnello
Spinach Tagliatelle with Lamb Meatballs
Serves 4 to 6
A note about preparing the zafferano: to fully release the flavors of this magnificent spice, you must first toast it. Place the zafferano in a large metal utility or soup spoon and hold the spoon over a flame, about 10 seconds, until fragrant. Place the toasted threads in a mortar and pestle and crush them. Finally, for both components of this recipe the zafferano should be dissolved in the liquids used, the chicken stock for the sugo and the wine for the polpettine. Some of the crushed threads may remain in the mortar. Pour some of the dissolving liquid into the mortar, swill it around, and all the precious spice will pour easily into the cooking pan.
1 package (8.8 oz.) Delverde Spinach Tagliatelle Nests
Sheep or cow’s milk ricotta
Pecorino to pass at the table
Extra virgin olive oil
Sugo
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
½ cup Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
1 tablespoon tomato paste
32 oz. canned tomatoes, chopped, with their juices
½ cup chicken stock
½ teaspoon zafferano threads, toasted and crushed
1 bay leaf
Kosher salt and black pepper to taste
Extra virgin olive oil
Polpettine
Makes about 55 ¾ inch polpettine
1 pound ground lamb (shoulder or leg)
1 small yellow onion, very finely minced
3 cloves garlic, very finely minced
¼ cup Trebbiano d’Abruzzo
¼ teaspoon zafferano threads, toasted and crushed
1 large egg
½ cup fine dry bread crumbs
¼ cup ground Pecorino
¼ cup ground Parmigiano-Reggiano
¼ cup chopped Italian parsley
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Extra virgin olive oil
Make the sugo: pour 2 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil into a low 4-quart saucepan or Dutch oven. Over medium heat add the onion and ½ teaspoon of kosher salt. Saute until translucent and softened, but not brown, about 8 to 10 minutes. Add the garlic, and saute until fragrant, about 2 minutes, being careful not to brown either the onion or garlic.
Add the tomato paste and cook, toasting it to accentuate its flavor, about 1 to 2 minutes. Add the wine and reduce it by half. Add the tomatoes, chicken stock with zafferano and the bay leaf, and bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat to a very gentle simmer. Remove and discard the bay leaf. Puree the sauce using an immersion blender, or in batches in a blender or food processor. Add several generous grinds of black pepper and taste for seasoning, adding more salt and pepper if desired. The sauce may be prepared to this point a day ahead or frozen for 3 months.
Make the polpettine: line a sheet pan with parchment or waxed paper. Line a second sheet pan with paper towels and set a rack over it to drain the polpettine after browning. Set both aside.
Pour 2 tablespoons of olive oil into an 8-inch skillet. Over medium heat, add the minced onion and ¼ teaspoon kosher salt, tossing to coat. Saute until translucent and meltingly soft, about 10 to 11 minutes. Add the garlic and saute briefly, about 1 minute. Add the zafferano to the wine. Once the garlic is fragrant, add the wine and zafferano mixture and continue cooking until the wine has evaporated, about 4 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl. Add the bread crumbs, cheeses, parsley, ½ teaspoon kosher salt and several grinds of black pepper, and combine well. Add the ground lamb and egg, mixing gently, but completely.
With dampened hands, form polpettine about ¾ inch in diameter, and place them on the parchment covered sheet pan. Pour 2 tablespoons of olive oil into a 10-inch skillet, and brown the polpettine in batches, about 2 minutes per batch. Transfer the browned polpettine to the prepared rack to drain. Add the polpettine to the gently simmering sauce and poach about 20 minutes until done.
Cook the tagliatelle and serve: Bring 6 quarts of water to a rolling boil. About 5 minutes before the polpettine have finished poaching, add 3 tablespoons of kosher salt to the boiling water. Add the tagliatelle nests and cook according to the package directions. Drain, reserving 1 cup of the cooking water, and toss with the sugo and polpettine. Add cooking water, 1 tablespoon at a time, if necessary, to loosen the sugo. Transfer to individual serving plates or a large platter. Place dollops of ricotta atop the tagliatelle, using a spoon to make small divots on top of the cheese. Dribble a bit of extra virgin olive oil over the ricotta, allowing it to pool on the cheese. Serve. Pass the Pecorino at the table.
Note: You can click on any picture for a larger image, and to see a slide show!
This recipe is posted as an entry in the Delverde Dish your blog recipe contest, in which a trip to New York City is a prize. I received free sample products in addition to an invitation to compete.
Buona fortuna! Good luck to all the contestants!
And, this from a 1965 Delverde postcard campaign.
Delverde pasta is a tradition in the Crocetti household.
Uncle Dean and The Duke stir it up!
Sunday, September 15th 2013 at 9:12 pm |
Che bellissimo post questo. Parla di tradizione, di amore, di ricordo e di intensità! Un piatto fantastico, amica mia.. Ti abbraccio forte e ti auguro una buona settimana!
Sunday, September 15th 2013 at 9:36 pm |
Ciao Ely,
Grazie! Sei cosi gentilissima. Questo post è veramente pieno di ricordi e di tradizione! Grazie ancora, e un abbraccio a te!
Sunday, September 15th 2013 at 9:24 pm |
This looks delicious. And, good luck in the contest!
Sunday, September 15th 2013 at 9:37 pm |
Ciao Foodie!
Thank you-we’ll see what the judges think!
Sunday, September 15th 2013 at 11:31 pm |
Dear Adri, first of all, good luck with the contest – hopefully you will win the trip to NY – I will keep my fingers crossed. Secondly, I love the fact that you wrote this blog post as a dedication to your grand-father – what a wonderful theme for a post. And, thirdly, I was talking to my husband about the fact that you cook the best pasta dishes and here is another wonderful recipe – love the sugo, the lamb meatballs and the finishing touch of ricotta – a real winner, dear Adri! As soon as I have a chance, I will come over for lunch!
Monday, September 16th 2013 at 7:05 am |
Hi Andrea,
Thank you! This was synchronicity at its finest. This contest and the Crocetti in Amerca Centennial dovetailed perfectly! As for lunch – any time!
Monday, September 16th 2013 at 12:21 am |
Looks delicious Adri — another beautiful presentation. But as usual for me, I love the story behind the food. I wonder what it was like for your Grandfather traveling on the Hamburg and how he felt about the food he found in Steubenville, Ohio. It must not have been easy giving up the beauty and fantastic food of Abruzzo. Good luck with the contest, I think you deserve the first place prize!!
Monday, September 16th 2013 at 7:08 am |
Ciao Trisha,
I often wonder what it was like for “Pop” as we called him. I get very nostalgic thinking of how it must have been leaving home, getting on that huge ship, and then sailing across the Atlantic. I know he left crushing poverty behind in hopes of a better life, but still, as you say, it had to be wrenching to leave. Thanks for the good wishes!
Monday, September 16th 2013 at 1:25 am |
A wonderful story. A lovely picture of your grandfather.
This dish looks and sounds amazing! I’m drooling now…
Cheers,
Rosa
Monday, September 16th 2013 at 7:08 am |
Hi Rosa,
Thanks you! This one was fun, and I know “Pop” would have loved it!
Monday, September 16th 2013 at 6:44 am |
Wonderful post. What a coincidence. My grandfather also came to America on September, 29, 1913. He sailed from Naples on the German ship, Moltke.
I wish you success in the competition. The recipe is very deserving of a win.
Monday, September 16th 2013 at 7:09 am |
Hi Jovina,
Oh my! Another German ship! Now wouldn’t that have been something if they had been on the SAME ship! Thanks for the kind words and good wishes!
Monday, September 16th 2013 at 8:28 am |
It sure would have been. I guess there were many, many ships crossing at the same time during those years.
Monday, September 16th 2013 at 8:35 am |
Hi again!
There were indeed many ships that made that crossing, Jovina. That third, and last, great wave of Italian immigration was comprised of about 3 million people, mostly from the Mezzogiorno. What a movement of humanity.
Monday, September 16th 2013 at 8:08 am |
Carissima,
What a wonderful post, very touching. I read the story of your grandfather with great pleasure. The recipe you presented is very inviting, a complete meal: first course, second course and cheese! I love your blog because it shows all the love and passion put in it. It is part of your life. Un forte abbraccio, Paola
Monday, September 16th 2013 at 8:17 am |
Ciao Paola,
Yes, an entire meal in one dish! I think Pop, as we called my grandfather would be proud of this dish. Thank you for stopping by and for your very kind comments.
Monday, September 16th 2013 at 12:46 pm |
One of my strongest (strangest) memories from my first trip to Italy was the realization that giant, egg-sized meatballs were obviously an American invention! GREG
Monday, September 16th 2013 at 5:28 pm |
Ciao Greg,
Indeed. In Puglia they do make them about the size of a walnut and serve them with a pasta called Stacchjoddi, which looks like flat orecchiette, but those giant size ones are classic “supersizing all’americano”, davvero!
Monday, September 16th 2013 at 1:55 pm |
Lovely post Adri. So touching to read about your grandfather and that you went to an Abruzzese recipe for your contest entry. It sounds and looks delicious and I hope you win the contest because I want you to come to NYC.
Monday, September 16th 2013 at 5:30 pm |
Ciao Linda,
Thanks. Pop would have liked this. It’s hearty and sumptuous, not frou frou. It would be very cool to come to NYC! I can’t wait to see your entry!
Monday, September 16th 2013 at 7:18 pm |
Oh, pecorino is my most favorite cheeze in the entire world. I put it on everything. Well, almost. And lamb is my favorite meat. This dish is perfect for me. Your Grandpa would be so proud of you for sharing these Italian recipes with the world. Beautiful photos, too.
Monday, September 16th 2013 at 7:40 pm |
Benvenuta Lynne,
I adore Pecorino, and there are so many different and wonderful varieties. I’m glad you liked this dish; I think my grandfather, Pop, as we knew him, would have absolutely devoured it. Thanks for the kind words. It is a pleasure to meet you. I have popped in on your site over time, and I thought it was time to say hello!
Monday, September 16th 2013 at 9:54 pm |
This is a fantastic dish, and all I can think of is my grandparents when the smells hit the kitchen! Great post, Adri. Keep em’ coming!
Monday, September 16th 2013 at 10:15 pm |
Ciao Toni,
Thanks! This one was fun, and you are right about the smells. This one brought back memories galore!
Monday, September 16th 2013 at 10:09 pm |
Adri, How proud your grandfather would be! I just love the dollops of ricotta, I can imagine just how good it all tastes together. You are a wonderful story teller, I enjoyed every word. You have my vote!
Monday, September 16th 2013 at 10:18 pm |
Ciao Marie,
Thank you! I hope he would be proud. I can just imagine him gobbling up the polpettine. Everything would remind of the home he left behind, and the zafferano would make him feel like a king. I am enjoying this “joint project.” We need to do more things like this. Un bacione a te!
Tuesday, September 17th 2013 at 6:30 am |
The food looks very tasty. Good luck with the contest.
Tuesday, September 17th 2013 at 11:45 am |
Benvenuto Robert!
Thanks for stopping by and for the good wishes!
Tuesday, September 17th 2013 at 7:37 am |
What an amazing story! And an amazing dish!
Tuesday, September 17th 2013 at 7:41 am |
Benvenuto John!
Thanks – Pop, as we called him would have enjoyed this dish. I am glad you dropped in!
Tuesday, September 17th 2013 at 7:41 am |
Adri looks like you’re on your way to New York
Tuesday, September 17th 2013 at 7:51 am |
Hi Anthony,
Thanks! This one was fun to do.
Tuesday, September 17th 2013 at 11:31 am |
Interesting – I’ve never seen polpette served with dollops of ricotta like that, but I’m sure it tastes wonderful.
Tuesday, September 17th 2013 at 11:44 am |
Ciao Mette,
I love it this way. It just softens everything, blending the flavors. I hope you try it! Un abbracio a te!
Tuesday, September 17th 2013 at 12:21 pm |
Gorgeous, thoughtful and inspired recipe. I’d expect no less from you. In bocca al lupo!
Tuesday, September 17th 2013 at 12:30 pm |
Ciao Michelle,
Thanks – this one was fun, and full of sweet memories. I wanted to celebrate Pop’s centennnial, and it dovetailed with the pasta challenge. I await your entry!
Tuesday, September 17th 2013 at 12:56 pm |
I know — I need to get cracking. Time has not been on my side lately! You have me thinking though!
Tuesday, September 17th 2013 at 12:58 pm |
Yes – get to it, Michelle!
Tuesday, September 17th 2013 at 3:03 pm |
I am so loving those meatballs!! And with lamb, I’m in heaven-another spectacular post Adri!
Tuesday, September 17th 2013 at 4:15 pm |
Hi Laney,
I am so glad you like the dish. They were some very tasty little meatballs! Thanks!
Tuesday, September 17th 2013 at 7:28 pm |
This is an exquisite recipe, Adri, made all the more special because it is accompanied by your sweet tribute to your grandfather! I’m always learning form you, as while I often serve ricotta as a sauce for tagliatelli, I never thought to combine it this way with sauce and polpettine. It looks so delicious! I hope you are one of the winners of the contest! I also wish i was still living to NYC so I’d be able to meet you when you win!
Tuesday, September 17th 2013 at 10:04 pm |
Hi Pat,
What kind words!! That is high praise, and I certainly appreciate hearing it. This one was really heartwarming, yet bittersweet. I only wish Pop, as we called my grandfather, was here to savor this one. Thank you for the good wishes!
Wednesday, September 18th 2013 at 5:12 am |
I think this is a winner, Adri…it sounds delicious. It is a wonderful tribute to your grandfather. I’m sure your “Pop” is smiling down on you with approval.
Wednesday, September 18th 2013 at 7:01 am |
Hi Karen,
Thank you so much. I believe he would have loved this dish, and I think he’d be proud of this entry. I hope all is well with you!
Wednesday, September 18th 2013 at 11:11 am |
Lamb meat balls sound terrific! This whole dish sounds excellent – really wonderful flavors. And such a nice tribute to your grandfather! Fun read – thanks.
Wednesday, September 18th 2013 at 3:17 pm |
Ciao John,
Thank you! I am glad you enjoyed it. This pasta challenge was quite a hit!
Wednesday, September 18th 2013 at 3:14 pm |
What a wonderful tribute to your grandfather through food + cuisine. Lamb meatballs are one of my all-time favorite foods, as is pasta in any form, so this looks like a PERFECT meal to me. Wish I had it in front of me right now!
Wednesday, September 18th 2013 at 3:22 pm |
Ciao Amy,
This dish turned out to have been a terrific idea. I had no idea how many people enjoy lamb meatballs. I am so pleased to hear that you are among them. I hope all is well with you and the family. Has the baby learned how to sift flour yet?
Saturday, September 21st 2013 at 6:30 am |
Everything looked maaahhhvalous. Almost too perfect to eat.
Saturday, September 21st 2013 at 6:54 am |
Ciao Robert,
Thank you! I am so pleased with the reception this dish has received. It’s family-style food food!
Saturday, September 21st 2013 at 2:09 pm |
What a wonderful recipe! Italian pasta is always the best!
Bye
Maurizia!
Saturday, September 21st 2013 at 2:22 pm |
Benvenuta Maurizia,
You are right about Italian pasta! And thank you!
Saturday, September 21st 2013 at 2:50 pm |
Adri, I just love the photo of your grandfather and the snippet about your family history! Thank you for sharing a great recipe and best of luck for the contest xox
Saturday, September 21st 2013 at 10:08 pm |
Benvenuta Liz,
I am so glad you like the shot. He was a great man, and a real character! Thanks for the kind words and good wishes!
Sunday, September 22nd 2013 at 12:40 pm |
tradizione, amore, voglia di ricordare, famiglia, condivisione…Qui nel tuo blog trovo sempre tante cose interessanti; conosco i prodotti Delverde, sono buonissimi ! Buona settimana cara Adri, un abbraccio
Sunday, September 22nd 2013 at 1:31 pm |
Ciao Chiara,
Grazie per le tue gentilissime parole. Penso che mio nonno sarebbe piaciuto questo piatto! Buona domenica a te. Un abbraccio!
Monday, September 23rd 2013 at 7:41 am |
Hi, I saw your comments on my blog and here I am. This recipe is fantastic. I ate a similar dish in Guardiagrele, Abruzzo, homemade noodles and topped with a ragout of lamb patties. My best wishes for the contest, I’m sure this dish, really Italian, will succeed. Ada
Monday, September 23rd 2013 at 8:19 am |
Benvenuta Ada,
A ragout of lamb patties sounds wonderful. Thank you for visiting, and for your good wishes. Un abbraccio a te!
Wednesday, September 25th 2013 at 5:05 am |
Ciao Adri, grazie per la tua visita. E’ stato molto piacevole scoprire e conoscere il tuo blog.
Ti scrivo in italiano perché il tuo commento era nella mia lingua, ma se preferisci possiamo comunicare in inglese.
E’ stata una scelta difficile quella di tuo nonno: partire per una terra lontana. Ma questa scelta difficile ha sicuramente dato tanti frutti con il tempo.
E’ bello conservare sempre le proprie origini e vedere con quanta passione parli dell’Abruzzo è davvero bello.
Un bacio.
Wednesday, September 25th 2013 at 7:10 am |
Ciao Ilaria,
E un piacere di fare la tua conoscenze, e grazie per la tua visita qui. Grazie per le tue gentilissime parole,e in futoro possiamo communicare in inglese!
Wednesday, September 25th 2013 at 5:49 pm |
Beautifully described dish, with a great backstory. Your grandfather would be proud of this recipe! best of luck to you, Adri, in the contest.
Wednesday, September 25th 2013 at 10:14 pm |
Ciao Nancy,
I think “Pop”, as we called our grandfather, would have enjoyed this too! Thanks for the good wishes, and I am so pleased you stopped by. Alla prossima!