Adri Barr Crocetti

A Vino Aperitivo for the Season

It’s early on Christmas Eve when the phone rings in the parish office, and the caller asks “What time is Midnight Mass?” Honest. Every year at parishes around the world inquiring minds want to know. A friend who was a parish administrator herself said that she fielded dozens of such calls every Christmas. We all chuckled at the goofy question. And every Christmas Eve morning I called my friend at work, put on my silliest, most heavily accented voice and asked the very same question. I could hear the hesitation in her voice while she figured it out, and then she replied “And Merry Christmas to you too, Miss Adri.” It was our very own Christmas greeting.

But Christmas Eve Midnight mass presents its own logistical problems. What do you serve before Mass? We’ve eaten a big feast just hours before, but by the time 10 PM rolls around, as the rest of the relatives arrive for a visit and the drive to the family parish, everyone is ready for “a little something” to tide us over. Somehow when I think of Mass, and what to drink, I think of Italian vermouth – served straight up in a pretty etched glass. But it is Christmas, and that should have you seeing and serving red, the festive kind, crimson with citrus and herbal notes. I know. You think I am talking about Campari, or perhaps Aperol. Nope. Allow me to introduce you to Cappelletti. It’s not the Bridge convention, nor is it Modena’s famous pasta, the “little hats” bathed in capon broth so popular at this time of year. Read the remainder of this entry »

Greetings to all. It’s been months since you have heard from me. Life and my home remodel have conspired to keep me out of the kitchen and away from my computer. This post, however is not about me. It is about Gina DePalma. Gina, for those of you unfamiliar with her, is one of the stars of the Italian pastry world. She was the pastry chef at Babbo and Enoteca restaurants in New York for many years, and she is the author of numerous articles and Dolce Italiano, one of my favorite collections of Italian desserts. Read the remainder of this entry »

The holidays are coming and it is time to think about tiny treats. For an afternoon snack, an accompaniment to an after-dinner glass of wine, or tidbits for surprise drop-in guests, these biscotti are perfect. These little cookies bear a distinct resemblance to Sicily’s famous Biscotti di Regina, but they have a lot more going for them. Not too sweet, they are made with olive oil rather than butter or shortening, and they are perfumed with Nero d’Avola, one of my favorite wines. Cinnamon and white pepper provide added warmth and depth of flavor, while accenting the spice notes of the wine. Read the remainder of this entry »

Zucchini Crostata with Ricotta-Lemon Filling

When most of us hear “crostata” we think of dessert, and a sweet crust topped with sugary fruit, caramelized and bubbling from its time in the oven. Rustic and free form, these open face tarts are good for main dishes too. Savory crusts topped with cheese, meats, and vegetables make simple, unfussy lunches, portable picnics, and satisfying light suppers.

Start with the crust. Lose the sugar, and you are on your way. Switch out some of the all-purpose flour for something with more character and bite, a little whole wheat flour, or perhaps rye flour or semolina. Add a hint of nutmeg, and seal the deal by substituting olive oil for butter. You are home free and dining savory. This olive oil pastry is the ultimate no-hassle crust. Quick to make, sturdy and easy to roll out, you’ll be glad to have this one in your repertoire.

Here I have used fresh ricotta atop the pastry base. The ricotta, flecked with lemon zest and delightfully fragrant lemon thyme, is dotted with sautéed pancetta and green onions, making a delightful medium for thinly sliced zucchini coins and a generous sprinkling of one of Abruzzo’s finest olive oils, Agrumato Lemon. The lemon scented oil adds bright notes of citrus while keeping Read the remainder of this entry »

These members of the Allium genus are covered with a red parchment-like skin, and their deep purple and white variegated interior is a glory to behold. Read the remainder of this entry »

Win a Cavatelli Maker

I wrote about handmade cavatelli a few months ago, and I was surprised and touched by how many readers commented that it reminded them of childhood memories dished up by moms, aunts and grandmothers. In particular, a number of you mentioned ricotta cavatelli. So here is another childhood favorite, this time with some ricotta in the cavatelli and a sauce made of sweet Italian sausage and Swiss chard. Read the remainder of this entry »