Adri Barr Crocetti

It seems to me that this coming summer everyone will be in Abruzzo.

Some friends are traveling to visit their ancestral villages and towns. Others, like food writer Domenica Marchetti, are leading culinary tours – taking hungry travelers through this pastoral land, sampling local cuisine and visiting artisanal food makers along the way. Travel to this largely undiscovered region is picking up, and that can only be a good thing. The cuisine, rich and borne of the land, is at once hearty and delicate, nuanced and bold. Cheeses, wines, olive oils and truly divine pastries – Abruzzo has it all. Some of Italy’s finest dried pasta comes from there too. And so does one of my favorite liquors, Punch Abruzzo. Read the remainder of this entry »

Carrot-Ricotta Ravioli with Herbed Butter

Green is the new black, so the food writers say. Vegetables are the answer to feeding a hungry planet, so the scientists say. However, this is not news to Italians. Their country’s rich soil produces an abundance of vegetables, each variety in astonishing array. Through the ages, from Apicius of ancient Rome, to Bartolomeo Scappi and Giacomo Castelveltri of the 16th and 17th centuries, right up to Pellegrino Artusi, Italian food writers have had a way with vegetables. With The Glorious Vegetables of Italy, food writer and cookbook author Domenica Marchetti has produced a treasure for our times and beyond. This book is the second in my Suggestions for Christmas Giving, but perhaps you had better not wait until Christmas. After all, the groaning board that is the Thanksgiving feast is replete with vegetables.

In this third volume of Ms. Marchetti’s Glorious series, she demonstrates the versatility and brilliance of classic Italian vegetable cookery, reinterpreted for the contemporary palate. It’s all here, opening with a section on vegetable identification, uses and seasonality, including a beautifully realized photographic gallery. There are basics on equipment and herbs, pasta dough and sauces. Course by course, this book will realign the senses of anyone who thinks of vegetables only as side dishes. Read the remainder of this entry »

One of the saddest casualties of the digital age is surely Gourmet magazine. Of course now I am kicking myself for having discarded all my old issues. I know there must be literally thousands of jewels forever lost to me. However, I remembered a recipe for Ricotta Ice Cream that I had seen in the magazine years ago. Thank heavens that recipe made it onto the digital archives. I used it as a starting point for this ice cream, making a few changes, including adding Punch Abruzzo instead of the rum originally called for.

This ice cream is rich, but not heavy, and the bittersweet chocolate is a nice foil for the citrus and sweet fruitcake notes of the Punch Abruzzo. Punch is one of my favorite liqueurs. I write about it and mention it so often, people ask if I work for the company. In case you too are wondering, the answer is no, I do not work for them. I just love the stuff. Read the remainder of this entry »

Well, Father’s Day is here, and I hope you all spend a wonderful day with your dads. My dad, William Crocetti, passed away many years ago, but I think of him often. That’s him in the photo. He enjoyed fountain specialties, so I thought I’d create something special in his honor. Of course, I looked first to Punch Abruzzo, the wonderful liquore from Italy. It is great over ice cream, and with its rum and coffee notes, spice and orange, is perfect in a float.

Here’s to you Dad. You would have loved this! Read the remainder of this entry »

Baked Egg Custard with Punch Abruzzo

Infused with Punch Abruzzo, this silky liaison of milk, cream and eggs is comfort food that speaks Italian. Punch is a liquor from Abruzzo, the homeland of my grandfather, Gaetano “Pop” Crocetti. The flavor of Punch is a remarkable combination of citrus, coffee, chocolate notes and tobacco with a hint of rum and a hearty dose of spice. It’s got character, just like Pop.


Treat the eggs carefully and you will be rewarded with a smooth custard with a soft interior. First “scald” the milk, cream and sugar, a technique that involves heating them just until bubbles appear around the edges of the pan, far below the boil. Next, slowly combine the hot mixture with the eggs to “temper” them, ensuring that the heat of the heat of the oven does not shock and curdle them. Read the remainder of this entry »

Punch Abruzzo – The secret ingredient in my Caffe, Cioccolata and Tiramisu
 
una bevanda che fa cambà cent’anni e cente mise – a drink that will let you live a hundred years and a hundred months

OK. Mayors do lots of wonderful things for towns. Chief administrators, they look out for the well being of their citizens, perform good works – everything from planting trees to visiting the needy and serving Thanksgiving meals. But one Mayor, Sig. Antonio Evangelista of the small town of Borrello in the province of Chieti (in southeastern Abruzzo) performed magic. To stave off the winter cold he decocted spirits, herbs and spices to come up with Punch Abruzzo, a most magnificent liquore. The mayor made it in his home fireplace, and apparently it caused quite a stir in the town, inciting all kinds of curiosity in the townsfolk.

Over time he refined his creation, making it for friends and fellow citizens, and in 1907 he named it Punch Abruzzo. Closely guarded, the formula has been handed down from father to son, and now the third generation of Evangelista produces Punch Abruzzo according to his grandfather’s proprietary formula, having moved the firm to Sambuceto (CH).

Punch Abruzzo has won much acclaim, and now on little cat feet it has quietly made its way to us. Expect to hear much more about this masterly infusion over the coming year as the importer rolls it out across America. Today’s enterprising mixologists will no doubt make hay with this one in long drinks and cocktails. I can’t wait. Read the remainder of this entry »