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Blood Orange Fruit Gelatin
Gather ye rosebuds while ye may,
Old Time is still a-flying:
And this same flower that smiles today
To-morrow will be dying.
…Robert Herrick
Grab them while you can. Juice them and freeze their juice. The season does not last forever, but right now blood oranges are everywhere, including my back yard, so I am using them a lot. Tarts, panna cotta, cocktails, zabaglione and some very adult gelatin. I remember eating lots of Jell-O when I was a kid. It’s the red flavors I liked best – none of that green stuff for me. Pass the raspberry, hold the lime. I can picture holding my mom’s wooden spoon and looking down as I stirred the garnet liquid, knowing that in a while it would transform into its own unique state of matter, somewhere between jiggly and solid, a state that, when exposed to the heat of my mouth, would return once again to its liquid beginnings. Magic. But as always, times and tastes change, and Jell-O was long ago relegated to the realm of childhood memory. Until Bart was in the hospital, that is. (To forestall any worry – he is perfectly well now. No troubles.) But after many days of no food at all, the angels of mercy presented him with Jell-O. He loved it. He devoured it. He wanted more. Either the poor guy was really hungry, or that Jell-O was really good. I will never know. But when he returned home he wanted some from scratch. Homemade fruit gelatin. Not a glamorous name, but that is what it is. I thought why not? This could be really good. We bought some cherry juice and gave it a try. It was easy to make and we were rewarded with a blast of pure cherry flavor. More experimentation was surely in order; at each visit to Trader Joe’s we’d scan the juice section for a new flavor to try. Bart always got to choose, still does. Along with cherry, some of our favorites are pomegranate, blueberry and cranberry, and now blood orange. Topped with a dollop of softly whipped cream, homemade fruit gelatin is surprisingly refreshing. Pure fruit taste.
My standard recipe is 2 cups of liquid, sugar and 1 packet (1/4 oz.) KNOX Unflavored Gelatine. Don’t be put off by the idea of using gelatin. Once you understand it, you’ll get the hang and you’ll wonder what the fuss was about. Proper gelatin use consists of two steps. First you must soften, or “bloom” the gelatin. To do this pour a small portion of liquid into a small bowl and sprinkle the gelatin over it. Set aside for 5 minutes. Do not stir. Second, pour softened gelatin into hot liquid and stir to dissolve. See, no hassle. No mystery. For more info on gelatin use, see my post on Espresso Panna Cotta.
Depending on the juice you use you may or may not need to add sugar – cranberry and pomegranate always need sugar, from 4 to 6 tablespoons for 2 cups of their very tart juices. Grape juice may not need any sugar, but remember that you will eat this cold, so a bit of sugar may be necessary to lift the flavor, no matter how perfect the juice seems when you first try it.
I say go for it. Perfect your fruit gelatin technique in time for summer. You can wow your guests with unusual flavor combinations and multi-layered delights.
In the fifties every chic hostess used Dorothy Thorpe glassware; in a nod to my mom, the most chic of hostesses and the woman who taught me all about Jell-O, I give you Blood Orange Fruit Gelatin in Dorothy Thorpe glassware.
Blood Orange Fruit Gelatin
makes 4 servings
2 cups strained blood orange juice
3-4 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 packet (1/4 oz. or 2 1/4 teaspoons) KNOX Unflavored Gelatine
Pour 1/4 cup juice into a small bowl. Sprinkle KNOX Gelatine over, and set aside to soften for 5 minutes. Do not stir.
Pour remaining juice in small saucepan and add sugar to taste. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring to dissolve sugar. Remove from heat.
Pour softened gelatin into hot liquid, stirring to combine well and dissolve gelatin. If your juice has cooled, quickly bring it back to the boil, remove from heat and add gelatin mixture, just to be certain it will dissolve.
Pour mixture through a fine strainer set over medium bowl. Place bowl over an ice water bath to cool, stirring occasionally.
Pour mixture into serving glasses and cover carefully with plastic. Refrigerate until completely chilled and set.
To serve, garnish with a dollop of lightly sweetened whipped cream.
Note: You can click on any picture to see a slide show!
Blood Orange Panna Cotta
So dramatic. So exotic. Winter in Sicily. Breakfast in the finest hotel. I am talking about blood oranges, Moro blood oranges in particular. Does any citrus make such a statement? This fruit will have you seeing red.
Cut a Moro open and see brilliant crimson throughout. Juice it and see an opaque liquid as dark as blood. Drink it and experience the marriage of orange with a hint of raspberry over a pedal point of tartness.
This is orange juice for adults. I figured that the juice, along with being a magnificent drink on its own, would be an unbeatable component in panna cotta. There are several kinds of blood oranges – Moro, Tarocco and Sanguinello being the most common. Although they all ripen in winter, the Moros ripen first and are at their peak right now. You can find them in Farmer’s Markets and many supermarkets these days. Lucky me, I find them in my back yard. I love my blood orange trees, but the Moro is my favorite – especially at this time of year. It is a wildly productive tree and now its branches are heavy with a medium sized fruit. The skin is quite rough and sports an enticing crimson blush. And, thank you Mother Nature, Moros are virtually seedless. If you would like your own blood orange tree, check out Four Winds Growers, a great source for hard to find citrus.
Let’s get to the recipe – for a step by step discussion of Panna Cotta and the proper use of gelatin, take a look at my recipe for Espresso Panna Cotta. You will find lots of explanations and photos there. I cooked up several versions – all cream, cream and milk, more milk than cream – more gelatin – less gelatin. I settled on 1 cup of cream and ½ cup of milk. All cream and the dessert was undeniably voluptuous, but the orange flavor was somehow masked, muted, while the 2 to 1 cream to milk ratio allowed for a pleasant creaminess and a startlingly clean orange flavor. I settled on 1 teaspoon of gelatin to allow for a softer set. If you prefer a firm set, go ahead and increase the gelatin to 1 1/4 teaspoons. This panna cotta is something of a trickster – its dusky rose hue belies a bright clean orange flavor. So get busy, find some Moro blood oranges, or any other variety, and make some Panna Cotta. A word about the choice of oranges. Not all blood oranges are created equal. Moros are much darker than the other varieties, so if you use Sanguinellos or Taroccos, your Panna Cotta will take on a lighter hue. The varieties vary in sweetness, you may have to adjust the sugar.
Blood Orange Panna Cotta
makes 4 servings, ½ cup each
1 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup whole milk
1/2 cup blood orange juice, preferably Moro
1/4 cup sugar
1 teaspoon gelatin
fresh berries and mint to garnish
Combine heavy cream, milk and sugar in medium sauce pan. Over medium heat, stir to combine and dissolve the sugar. Heat to scalding. Remove from heat. Meanwhile pour orange juice in small bowl and sprinkle gelatin over it. Set aside for 5 minutes to allow to soften. After gelatin has softened, pour the orange juice mixture into the scalded cream, stirring to combine thoroughly and dissolve gelatin. Pour through a fine strainer into a clean bowl. Place bowl over ice bath, stirring often to cool uniformly. Transfer mixture into serving glasses. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 2 hours or overnight, until ready to serve. When ready to serve top panna cotta with fresh berries and mint.
Note: You can click on any picture to see a slide show!
Espresso Panna Cotta
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The French have Creme Brulée. The Italians have Panna Cotta. Creme Brulee is thickened with eggs. Panna cotta is thickened with gelatin. Both are creamy. Both are delicious. Today’s post is Italy’s answer to the French. And I think it is a great answer.
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Panna Cotta can be made with lots of different dairy products – milk, cream, yogurt, buttermilk, sour cream, creme fraiche, pretty much anything you can think of. It is often flavored, always sweetened and always includes gelatin. My Espresso Panna Cotta is made with milk and cream, sweetened with sugar, flavored with espresso beans and set with gelatin. Classic.
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A few words about Fear of Gelatin. If you were born after the ascendancy of JELL-O you have it. We all have it. In 1950 JELL-O began a heavy advertising campaign, and they really took America by storm. Housewives everywhere were looking for shortcuts, and Jell-O was a sure bet. The homemade fruit gelatins my mom grew up with all but disappeared. At about the same time menu items such as Tomato Aspic and gelées in general fell very much out of vogue. Use of gelatin decreased overall. For lots of us our main gelatin memory is that we drank it in hopes of growing long, strong beautiful nails. But when you make this Espresso Panna Cotta, you will conquer your fear. Really. My sister always gives me grief when I say a recipe is easy. But this one is.
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So, about gelatin. It is made from the collagen found in beef and pork. It is an animal product. Vegetarians out there, beware. For those following a kosher diet, kosher gelatin is available, but not all gelatins are created equal. While unflavored gelatin can be found sold in bulk, the product most supermarkets sell is KNOX Unflavored Gelatine, and it is supplied in boxes containing individual packets. Each packet contains 1/4 ounce of gelatin, an amount just shy of 2 1/2 teaspoons. If your recipe calls for anything other than a packet of gelatin, you must measure.
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I have made many Espresso Panna Cotta recipes that call for instant espresso. They are really good, and they are pretty quick, but if you are looking for a depth of round coffee flavor, go for the beans. And the beans you use are important. Use a good full flavored fruity espresso bean. I used Oro Blanco Tazzo D’Oro, from Guidi Marcello in Santa Monica, California or Amazon.com.
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To infuse the cream with the coffee flavor you must first coarsely crush the beans. I said crush, not grind. Use a hammer, a meat mallet, a skillet or what ever grabs your fancy. Put the beans in a plastic bag (that way you can see how much you have crushed them) and get to it.
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Next, place the cream, beans and sugar into a saucepan, stir to dissolve the sugar and heat until small bubbles form around the edge of the pan. This technique is called scalding. Please note I did not say “Boil the cream.” If you go beyond the scald and arrive at the boil your next stop is the dreaded boil over and its attendant mess. You will wind up with cream all over your stovetop. Some of it will scorch and stick to your stovetop, and you will have quite a clean up job on your hands. Do keep a good eye on your saucepan. You have been warned. Once you have scalded the cream mixture, remove the pan from the heat, cover and let the mixture steep for 20 minutes.
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After 15 minutes pour the milk into a small bowl and sprinkle the gelatin over it to soften, also called blooming. Do not stir.
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The softened gelatin will look like a relief map of a very blond landscape, all rolling hills. This is what you want. Things are progressing well.
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After the gelatin has softened for 5 minutes (we are at 20 minutes total now) pour it into the cream and stir to combine and dissolve the gelatin. (If you are concerned about the gelatin not melting, heat the cream mixture briefly before you add the gelatin to insure the cream is hot enough.)
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Prepare an ice bath. For this you need two bowls, one larger than the other. Fill the larger bowl half full with ice water.
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Strain the mixture into the smaller of the two bowls.
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Set the bowl containing the panna cotta into the bowl containing the ice water and stir occasionally until it is cool, about 15 minutes, taking care that no ice water gets into the panna cotta. This will cool the panna cotta to allow for a smooth and uniform set.
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Don’t discard the crushed coffee beans! They are an excellent high nitrogen mulch for your tomatoes. Waste not. Want not.
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Once your panna cotta is cool, pour into serving containers and refrigerate until you are ready to serve. It will take several hours to set up. I suggest making it in the morning, or even the day before. This is such an ethereal dessert, and I love to see how my guests savor each bite. I can tell when people like dessert. Table conversation stops. That makes me smile. You will too.
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Espresso Panna Cotta
makes 4 servings
1 1/2 cups heavy cream
1/3 cup espresso beans, coarsely crushed
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
1/2 cup whole milk
1 1/4 teaspoons gelatin
Combine cream, espresso beans and sugar in a saucepan. Stir until sugar is dissolved. Heat over medium heat until scalding. Remove pan from heat, stir and cover. Steep for 20 minutes.
After the cream mixture has steeped for 15 minutes pour milk into a small bowl and sprinkle gelatin over it. Allow gelatin to soften for 5 minutes.
After the gelatin has softened pour the milk and gelatin mixture into the cream mixture, stirring until smooth and gelatin is completely dissolved. Pour through a fine strainer set over a bowl. Place bowl in a water bath to cool, about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Pour cream mixture into 4 serving glasses and cover carefully with plastic wrap. Refrigerate until completely chilled.
To serve, garnish with white or dark chocolate shavings or chocolate covered espresso beans.
Note: You can click on any picture for a larger image, and to see a slide show!
I have no affiliation with any product, manufacturer, or site mentioned in this article.